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The route 



to the Arctic Ocean by water. 



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The Frozen Northland 



lltfe Wit^ t^e €^(inimo in 
^i& O^ton Country 



By 

WINFIELD SCOTT MASON 



Illustrated 



Cincinnati : Jennings and Graham 
New York: Eaton and Mains 






Copyright, 1910, 
By Jennings and Graham 



©CIA2V5;^^4 



Preface 

The passion for adventure is inherent in our race, let 
alone the interest of scientific curiosity, which prompts 
men to go in search of the unknown. 

But science is a great republic in which all have 
equal rights. Other nations have competed with our- 
selves to discover the secrets so jealously guarded by the 
lady of the ice and snow. 

In the year of 1897 a new word appeared in the 
American vocabulary, and the Klondike became a sur- 
prise and a sensation, not only to our people, but to 
the world. Then came the rush. Never has the world 
witnessed such suffering and hardships. To a few it 
brought wealth, but to thousands it brought poverty, 
shattered health, and disappointment. 

The unmarked graves of the frozen Northland 
will never tell the rest of the story. 

But the object of the author is to give to the readers 
of **The Frozen Northland" only personal experiences, 
together with the knowledge gleaned by the way, with 
the modes and customs of our dusky friends who dwell 
in that remote polar region. 



PREFACE 

We have endeavored to present both the sunshine 
and the shade as we saw it. 

This book goes out with the earnest desire of the 
author to entertain its readers by giving facts that 
are more interesting than misleading fiction. 

W. S. M. 



Contents 

I. The Return of Jack Wegmer, - - 9 

II. Camp Life at Athabasca, - - 18 

III. Down the Athabasca River, - - 23 

IV. The Perils of the Rapids, - - 30 
V. Fort Resolution, - - - - 39 

VI. In the Land of the Midnight Sun, - 52 

VII. An Arctic Christmas, - - - 61 

VIII. Caribou, 75 

IX. Return to Herschel Island, - - 84 

X. The Trail, - ... - 97 

XL With the Whalers, - - - - 116 

XII. Homeward Bound, - - - - 140 

XIII. NoNEVOK Islands, - - - - 153 



List of Illustrations 

PAGE 

Map Showing the Route to the Arctic Ocean 

BY Water, . . . - Frontispiece 

The Last Rapids were Finally Passed, and 

Once More We Breathed Freely, - - 34 

Children of the Woods. How Little They 

Know of the Great Outside World, - 38 

Rev. I. O. Stringer, Missionary at Herschel 

Island, With His Family, - - - 64 

We Succeeded in Procuring Several Fine 

Husky Dogs, 7^ 

Every Sunday Morning Religious Services 

WERE Held, Accompanied with Singing, - %(> 

With the Passing of the Caribou Came the 

Timber Wolves, 90 

Map Showing the Trail as Described by the 

Wegmer Chart, - - - - - 96 

On Nearer Atproach we Found It to be the 

Carcass of a Grampus or White Whale, 116 

An Eskimo Village on the Arctic Coast, Near 

the Mouth of the Mackenzie River, - 122 

'7 



The Frozen Northland 



CHAPTER I 

The Return of Jack Wegmer 

When Jack Wegmer left Chicago a poor boy, to seek 
his fortune in the frozen, unexplored regions of the 
Northlands, his friends shook their heads with a feeling 
that he was sacrificing his life for that which could 
only exist In the Imagination of his adventurous mind. 

Jack had a wild, roving disposition, reckless to the 
extreme, and the thoughts of camp life, without re- 
straint from the law of civilization, seemed to just suit 
his nature. Three years passed and not a word had 
come back from the unknown country to tell of his 
life or prospects, and people of the neighborhood had 
almost ceased to comment upon his perilous adventure ; 
in fact, all except his nearest relatives had seemed to 
drop him entirely from their minds. 

But when, late in the fall of the third year. Jack 
returned with $35,000 In gold, a flurry of excitement 
ran through the circle of his acquaintances, and Jack 
became the hero of all who knew him. But the older 

9 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

ones shook their heads, for, if the young man who went 
away three years before was reckless, the returned "Jack 
the Miner," as he was termed, was tenfold more so. 

He spent his money lavishly, plunging into the 
depths of vice whose open doors stood ever ready to re- 
ceive him. But his more intimate friends often observed 
a wild, troubled look in his eyes, and a sad expression of 
fear seemed to take possession of him. But he would 
immediately shake them off and dive into dissipation 
and pleasure more recklessly than ever. He would tell 
many exaggerated tales of camp life, and of the rich 
gold strikes he had made, and often expressed his de- 
termination to return to his mine as soon as spring 
opened the next year. 

But as spring approached and the time drew near 
for his departure, a sudden attack of typhoid fever took 
possession of him, and grim death fastened its fangs 
upon him and could not be bribed by all the gold of 
Klondike. 

When these serious complications set in, the chart 
was brought before him, which he had often referred to 
as leading to a rich mine of gold, but he was too sick 
to explain, and with a wild look of fear, as of some 
haunted creature, he pushed it from him, and soon 
passed into a state of unconsciousness. 

In three days Jack was dead. He had braved perils 
by land and sea, and now was snatched away by the 
hand of death when on the very threshold of apparent 
happiness and ease. But such is the mystery of destiny. 

It was now the month of March, and his friends 
10 



THE RETURN OF JACK WEGMER 

who believed that the chart which Jack had so jealously 
guarded would lead them to a mine of wealth, decided 
to organize a party and carry out the plan of the dead 
miner. Only a few weeks intervened before they must 
needs leave the land of civilization, and plunge into the 
region of the frozen Northland. Consequently, a party 
was soon made up of four determined men (including 
the writer) and on the 12th day of April, 1898, left 
Chicago on the midnight express, which was to carry 
them as far as possible into the great Northwest, Can- 
ada, two thousand miles away to the North. 

On arriving at the terminus of the Canadian Pa- 
cific Railroad, we found the ground covered with snow, 
and our overcoats and gloves served us well in keeping 
out the cold while we proceeded to investigate the pros- 
pect of securing supplies for our Northern journey. 

Outfitting for a party of four, with supplies and 
equipments for a journey to the Arctic Coast, is not an 
easy undertaking. But there are guide books and guide 
books sent out by every concern that kept Arctic sup- 
plies, and with several of these in our possession, after 
two days of bantering, choosing, and then exchanging, 
we succeeded in closing a bargain with the Hudson's 
Bay Company at Edmonton, Northwest Territory, 
Canada. Edmonton Is located on the Saskatchewan 
River, at the terminus of a branch of the Canadian 
Pacific Railroad, which leaves the main line at Cal- 
gary, and is at this time the northernmost point on the 
North American Continent to be reached by a contin- 
uous line of railroad. Edmonton Is the largest market 
II 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

for raw furs in the world, and in the old days was the 
only important settlement in that section, being the 
nerve center of the Hudson's Bay Company's opera- 
tions. To-day their business of collecting furs extends 
to that district of the Northwest Territory known as 
the Mackenzie, extending to the Arctic Sea and to the 
edges of Yukon, British Columbia, and Keewatin. 
However, only a comparatively small number of the 
native trappers come into Edmonton. The others go 
only to the primitive and isolated posts or landings in 
the North Country. There they deal with the traders, 
some of whom represent the great companies, while 
others buy on their own account. Pelts are exchanged 
for supplies, and occasionally a banknote or a few pieces 
of silver. But it is little enough the Indian gets at best. 
The market value of skins brought into Edmonton 
each year, exclusive of those of the Hudson's Bay Com- 
pany, is between $500,000 and $600,000, but much less 
than that goes to the trappers. The traders must have 
their profit, and they get at least as much out of the 
trappers as of the man to whom they sell. How- 
ever, the Indian seems to wish for nothing more than 
a little coarse food and clothing and guns and traps 
wherewith to carry on his business. The white man 
finds his justification in this fact, and to his credit it 
is said that from the old days down to the present time 
he has never permitted a hungry Indian to be unfed nor 
a sick one to be uncared for. He has even gone further 
than that. If the peltries brought in by the natives are 
not worth as much as the supplies they actually need, 
12 



THE RETURN OF JACK WEGMER 

the white man gives them the balance and "charges it" 
to them until the next season. 

Some of the Indians in the more northerly sections, 
where the furs are finest because of the greater cold, 
seldom or never see a white man or any signs of civiliza- 
tion. They remain in the woods from one year's end 
to another. Pelts which they gather and place in caches 
are collected by half-breed representatives of the trad- 
ers, who follow the trails and settle accounts with the 
trappers whenever the opportunity ofifers. Members 
of many tribes are engaged in the work, among the 
most prominent being the Crees, Chippewayans, Louch- 
eux, Dog-Ribs, Yellow Knives, Ojibways, Blackfeet, 
Crows, Shoshones, Stonies, Kastenais, Chinooks, Chil- 
coots, and farther north the Eskimos. 

Many of these are shiftless and not Inclined to labor 
more than is actually necessary to bring -in the necessi- 
ties of life, but the white man pays high tribute to the 
honesty of practically all of them. 

Our party, after securing the services of two half- 
breed Cree Indians, with horses and wagons, started on 
a tedious tramp through an uninhabited wilderness to 
Athabasca Landing, ninety miles away to the north. 
It was now the i8th of April, but the Ice had not 
yet broken up, and we crossed the Saskatchewan River 
just at daybreak with our three tons of provisions, cloth- 
ing, and mining equipage, drawn by eight wiry mus- 
tangs, while astride the left wheeler sat a half-breed 
Cree, whose shouts of "Cush! Cush! " and crack of the 
whip echoed through the scrub timbered hills and ra- 

13 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

vines. Our little party of four whites, with guns slung 
to our shoulders, followed behind the slowly moving 
train, enjoying the novel surroundings and noting here 
and there the signs of game, which were sometimes the 
footprints made by Bruin In the sand or by the sharp 
hoof of the wary moose, while many a grouse during 
the day fell a victim to our fire, thus adding "the real 
thing," as Thompson would say, to our supper as we 
sat around the campfire at night. 

The third day out we crossed- Sturgeon River about 
noon, where we decided to camp until the next day to 
give the horses a chance to browse, and to rest our al- 
ready blistered feet. The sun shone warm during the 
day, but the nights were chill and frosty, and our heavy 
woolen blankets served us well as we lay on our bed of 
spruce boughs and listened to the querulous howl of the 
coyote. 

No incident of note occurred until the morning of 
the sixth day. We iiad camped on Stony Creek, which 
is about ten miles from the landing. Moose signs were 
plenty, and we had been out early to try for a shot 
before starting and had just returned to breakfast dis- 
appointed, when suddenly one of the Indians, who had 
started out where the horses were feeding, came running 
into the tent, and catching up his rifle, sprang onto one 
of the nearest horses and dashed away lYito the scatter- 
ing timber. As we stood watching him, a moose was 
seen to step Into the creek bed a short distance up the 
stream, where it stood apparently gazing at two of the 
horses which were tethered nearby. Breakfast was for- 

14 



THE RETURN OF JACK WEGMER 

gotten, and with rifle in hand we each dodged behind 
a thicket, through which we could peer, and awaited 
developments. The Indian could be seen circling 
through the timber and coming nearer the moose from 
the opposite direction, with his rifle poised and pointed 
at the game. The cayuse, being of nearly the same color 
as the moose, did not frighten it in the least, and it 
stood watching the approach until we began to be im- 
patient because the Cree still withheld his fire. But at 
this juncture the moose must have begun to scent dan- 
ger, for it suddenly bounded a few steps up the slope 
and turned its head back toward the Indian, when a 
report rang out, and the moose was seen to turn a com- 
plete somersault and plunge into the thicket which grew 
along the bank of the creek. The next moment such 
a snorting and kicking as begun among our horses I 
never saw before, as, breaking the lariats, they came 
rushing and tearing through the brush to where our 
wagons were standing. The moose, crazed by the shot, 
and no doubt taking the mustangs for other moose, ran 
bumping against trees and over bushes in a mad effort 
to follow them, but finally laid down not fifty feet from 
where we were standing, when a well-directed shot 
settled the matter. It was a two-year-old cow, and fur- 
nished us with the finest venison for many days. 

That night we reached Athabasca Landing, and, 
pitching our big tent (which was I2x 14 feet) placed 
all our belongings inside. The half-breeds, after re- 
ceiving their pay of $60, drove into the edge of the tim- 
ber, turned their tired ponies out to browse, and rolling 

IS 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

themselves in their blankets, were soon asleep. The 
next morning each was astir before daybreak. Much 
work had to be done before starting on our long journey 
down stream, and it was already later than we- had ex- 
pected to arrive here. Several miners had come down 
from the Hudson Bay post at Little Slave Lake, and 
were waiting for the river to clear of ice before starting. 
Others who were employed by the Hudson Bay Com- 
pany were engaged in repairing or building scows, 
either for their own use or to sell, while a few Indian 
tepees could be seen back in the edge of the timber. 
Three or four tents were pitched upon the level patch 
of ground, near the south bank of the river, while an 
old shanty, occupied by the Hudson Bay Company, 
was all that was to be seen of what was, a few days 
later, a swarming, bustling village. 

On learning that some miners had a portable saw- 
mill a few miles up the river, we immediately shoul- 
dered what tools we could carry, and, leaving one man 
to care for the camp, started up river. The day was 
half gone before we reached the place, where we found 
three of the most woe-begone men one could possibly 
imagine. They had spent three weeks in trying to set 
up their little mill, but possessing no experience, they 
could not make it work, and were about to abandon it 
and go down to the landing for help. They had come 
down the river before the ice had broken, expecting to 
have the lumber sawed and their boat built in time to 
leave at the first breaking up of the ice. But now the 
river was nearly clear and their prospect was anything 

i6 



THE RETURN OF JACK WEGMER 

but flattering. Our party being composed of two prac- 
tical engineers and one carpenter, we asked permission 
to overhaul the machinery, which was readily given. 
In fact, I believe if we had agreed to saw out lumber 
for their boat they would have given us the entire mill 
outfit. But suffice it to say, we worked all the after- 
noon, and the next day we began to saw, and a finer 
mill no one could ask for. The side hill above the mill 
was covered with Norway pines, and a skidway was 
full of logs before we began. We sawed out lumber 
sufficient for two boats, and then we turned the mill 
over to its original owners, and a happier set of men 
I never saw. Soon boat loads of miners began coming 
down the river, and orders for lumber came thick and 
fast, until, when we left them, they were selling boat 
lumber for $35 per thousand, the miners rolling the 
logs onto the skidway. Whether they ever left for 
down-stream or not, we never heard, but one thing we 
did know, and that was that they had a Klondike all 
their own. 



17 



II 
Camp Life at Athabasca 

The next two weeks were spent In building our boats. 
The scow being thirty-two feet long with eight-foot 
beam, twenty-eight-foot mast, with plenty of sails, two 
sets of oars, sixteen feet long, and a sweep which worked 
on a pivot at the stern of the boat. Each end of the 
boat was decked over for eight feet with matched lum- 
ber, while all over, from deck to deck, was nicely fitted 
heavy canvas to button over the outside of the gunwale 
during wet, stormy weather. All the necessary tools 
and materials were brought up from the camp in a 
small boat (borrowed from the workmen at the land- 
ing), and for the first few days we worked almost con- 
stantly, hardly stopping to eat or sleep. As all hands 
had been retained to push forward the boat-building, 
we were now becoming uneasy as to the safety of our 
camp at the landing, and# this the more so, as word 
came to us that many miners had already arrived. So, 
when Saturday night came. It was decided to launch 
our scow, load In our tools, lumber, and material, and 
float down to the landing, where we could finish, pitch, 
and caulk her, and at the same time guard our outfit 
from any intrustlon. As we came down near the land- 
l8 



CAMP LIFE AT ATHABASCA 

ing, the barking of dogs and shouting of men could 
plainly be heard, while no less than twenty tents could 
be seen pitched along the edge of the river. A saw- 
mill was on the ground and being set up by the Hudson 
Bay Company, while several log cabins were being com- 
pleted and already occupied. We drew the scow up 
opposite our tent and hastened to examine our neglected 
outfit. The front of the tent had been torn open and 
no less than fifty pounds of our best bacon partly eaten 
and entirely spoiled by thieving dogs. Whether the 
dogs were alone in breaking into our tent, we could only 
conjecture, but we swore vengeance on any prowling 
curs for all time to come, and many a retreating howl 
could be heard during our stay, caused by a dash of hot 
water which the cook kept constantly on hand. 

Sunday was spent in leisurely strolling about the 
place or talking over our future prospects, for not a 
stroke of work was done on that day. The example 
was set by the employees of the Hudson Bay Company, 
and all fell into line as a matter of course. Toward 
night we heard singing in one of the tents, and on walk- 
ing over, found a meeting in progress, and while not 
a strictly Christian congregation, many took part, tell- 
ing of the loved ones left behind, of the dangers before 
them, and beseeching the guidance of Him who rules 
both land and sea. 

Having noticed a small stream emptying into the 
river, which appeared to contain fish, I expressed a de- 
sire one evening, as we sat in camp, to try my luck the 
next morning at catching a few fish for breakfast. The 

19 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

idea meeting with the approval of the boys, I hunted 
up our box of fishing tackle, and having chosen a couple 
of small hooks and lines, procured some bait, and then 
turned in for the night. The next morning just at day- 
break Sisk and mysejf w^ere a half-mile up the creek, 
casting our hooks into all the pebbly pools above which 
the little stream rippled and tumbled in its haste to 
reach the river. A few trout were taken, but they were 
mostly small fry, and we reached the river with scarcely 
enough shiners for a single meal, not to speak of the four 
robust, hungry men, each expecting to breakfast on fish. 
As we stood watching the scores of minnows that were 
darting about at the mouth of the stream, we heard a 
vigorous **swish" and a "flap" as a great pike shot in 
among them, scattering them in every direction, and 
securing a mouthful, swam back in the river. In a 
few moments the same thing was repeated, until no 
less than a dozen large fish of the pickerel tribe had 
come in for a breakfast off the minnows. Without a 
word, we both started on a run for the camp, and when 
we returned there were four of us with dip-nets, hooks, 
line and reel, and flies of every description. Talk about 
fun! Those fish were nearly starved, and I doubt if 
they ever saw a hook before. The first cast a "dusty 
miller" was taken the moment it struck the water, and 
no matter what the bait, or how careless or awkward 
the cast, it was taken as soon as it fell. Breakfast and 
work were alike forgotten, and at nine o'clock we had 
taken more fish than we could carry. We sold enough 
to pay for our time, and gave many away. But I have 
20 



CAMP LIFE AT ATHABASCA 

never seen fish so anxious to be caught as on the morning 
we first went to try our luck. I often heard, when 
farther down the river, of the Indians catching fish at 
the landing with only a piece of red flannel for bait, and 
I believed every word of It. 

The Athabasca River is a very beautiful stream, 
with a current of about four miles an hour. It Is five 
hundred yards wide, and Its sloping banks are covered 
with spruce', hemlock, and pine. 

The Ice had now all disappeared, the water had 
receded to its usual depth, and many boats were start- 
ing on the perilous trip — with dangers untried and un- 
known to the rmst of them — which If successful would 
perhaps secure for them a little of the vast wealth which 
the whole world madly desires. 

Will we succeed? Time alone can tell. It was 
now the 8th of May, and Athabasca Landing was a 
swarming village of four hundred Inhabitants. Many 
had come over the same trail we had taken, while In- 
dian guides from Lake La Biche and other points along 
the river could be seen standing around, anxious for 
an engagement to pilot our boats through the rapids 
and over the portages that lay between Grand Rapids 
and Fort McMurray, a distance of one hundred and 
eighty miles down stream. Accosting one of these 
guides, who was a tall, noble-looking fellow — his black 
beard and clear complexion showing plainly his French 
descent — ^we inquired If he was engaged. He told us in 
very plain English that he was not, but that he had 
acted as guide for fur traders and explorers for the past 
21 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

twenty years, and being acquainted with every spot In 
the river, could pilot several boat-loads as well as one. 
On Inquiring of the Hudson Bay Company, we found 
him to be one of the most reliable guides that had ever 
been In their employ, unsurpassing for honesty and 
truthfulness — which we afterwards found to be true. 
He was known far and near as Captain Shot. We 
plainly saw that he was waiting for a Klondike price, 
so we offered him $50 to pilot us to Fort McMurray, 
and added that he might engage as many other boats 
to follow us as he could, but that we should expect him 
to ride with us and handle the sweep. As our offer 
was $10 more than the others were paying, he said, 
"All right, saire," and started away. We were not 
sure at first what he Intended to do, but when we were 
ready to start. Captain Shot was the first man on board, 
and proved an indispensable and agreeable companion. 



22 



Ill 

Down the Athabasca River 

Lost! Captain Shot's Story 

Our boat was now finished, w^th the small skiff 
dancing at its side, and loading all our belongings into 
it, we rowed out into the middle of the river and started 
down-stream. As we rounded the bend a short distance 
below the Landing I raised my oars out of the water 
and glanced back at the little village, now dotted with 
a hundred tents and cabins, its main street pulsing with 
the hurly-burly of money-getting, and reminding one 
in many ways of Leadville during the boom days, while 
along the beach boats of every style and shape lay 
moored. "Was it possible, and all in two weeks?" 
But the thick fur trees quickly shut out the sight, and 
as the captain's voice rang out, I began pulling at the 
oar again, while a song rang upon the water like the 
following : 

They left behind them foe and friend, 
And disappeared from haunts of men, 
They climbed the snow-capped mountain peaks, 
And crossed the frozen lakes and creeks 
To Klondike. 

23 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

They braved the howling northern blast 
That froze their marrow as it passed, 
Footsore and weary, worn, dismayed, 
They never let the vision fade 

Of Klondike. 

After rowing for some time, a light breeze sprang 
up, and hoisting the square sail we threw ourselves upon 
the soft bedding near the rear deck and enjoyed the 
beautiful scenery along the shore. Several times ducks 
came swooping down the stream and would alight near 
us, only to fall a victim to our ever-ready fowling pieces. 
While at Edmonton we had procured a fine water 
spaniel called Sport, which now performed yeoman's 
service for us in retrieving game shot from the boat. 

The second day out, Pelican Rapids were passed. 
Here we found a boat stranded on the rocks; the own- 
ers of the boat having no guide, had struck against a 
rock and were unable to shove off. With our help 
they were soon in deep water again, and crossing over 
to the opposite side passed on In safety. Several bands 
of Indians were camped at this point, engaged in catch- 
ing fish that became stranded on the gravel below the 
rapids where the water was too shallow for them to 
escape. Tons of fish were taken in this way each spring 
by the natives. The next day we arrived at Grand 
Rapids, where the foaming torrent races along on both 
sides of the river with an island a half-mile in length 
In Its center, over which our goods and boat had to be 
portaged to the lower end of the rapids. This being 
the route of the Hudson Bay Company, a good road 

24 



DOWN THE ATHABASCA RIVER 

had been cut through the center of the island, but to 
portage a boat like ours a half-mile, with all of the 
luggage, was no small undertaking. Nevertheless, our 
goods were promptly thrown out and piled up on the 
island, our boats drawn to land, and the work of portag- 
ing began. By cutting stringers and rollers from the 
small pines that grew upon the island, our boat was 
soon on its way. Here the Captain's son, a stalwart 
boy of eighteen, joined us with two other boatloads of 
miners, and as our boat was the first to reach the island, 
all hands turned to and rushed the work along. All 
night we worked as men seldom work, and completely 
tired out just as day began to break, we dropped upon 
the ground over which we had lugged our ponderous 
loads and slept until the hot sun and wicked sand-flies 
drove us again to action. Another day and night simi- 
lar to the first followed before the last boat was 
launched at the lower end of the island. But time was 
passing and we did not spare ourselves. Hoisting our 
sail, we now pushed forward, resting or catching a lit- 
tle sleep as the scow sped on its way. Rapids now came 
thick and fast. Brule Rapids and Boiler Rapids were 
run without trouble, but on reaching Cascade Rapids, 
which had a fall of eight feet, and which drop suddenly 
over sharp rocks and boulders into a foaming whirl- 
pool below, we were obliged to unload our cargo and 
let the boat down with ropes from the edge of the 
bank. Now these banks were perpendicular rock, 
towering high above our heads with only a small jut- 
ting ledge on which to stand. But nothing daunted, 

25 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

we unloaded our goods and began carrying them along 
the narrow shelf to the lower end of the rapids. With 
hammer and chisel a block and tackle was made fast to 
the rock just above the falls, through which a rope was 
passed, and one end fastened to the stern of the boat, 
while just below the rapids was a similar block with 
rope attached to the bow of the boat. Captain Shot 
now sprang into the boat, and with the sweep turned 
her bow toward the middle of the stream, where the 
rapids were less dangerous, while the rope from the 
stern held the boat from going too swiftly. As the 
falls were reached, the Captain, with a quick move, 
threw off the rope from the stern and shot ahead Into 
the whirling maelstrom below. But the men below the 
falls were waiting, and quickly drew the uninjured 
boat to shore. In which was a small amount of water 
with a very wet Captain clinging to the sweep. 

Our cargo was soon loaded, and the next day at 
twelve o'clock we reached Fort McMurray, which Is 
one of the Hudson Bay Company's most important 
posts, and from which place Captain Shot was to leave 
us and return to Athabasca Landing on foot. But a 
heavy rain set in with a north wind blowing, and we 
all decided to wait over until more favorable weather. 
That night, after supper, as we were all sitting In the 
tent around our little camp stove, several of the resi- 
dents of the fort came in, and after talking over their 
experiences in that far Northern country some one asked 
Captain Shot to tell us of the time he was lost in the 
great woods. The Captain, after some hesitation, be- 
26 



DOWN THE ATHABASCA RIVER 

gan: "It is seldom you ever hear of an Indian being 
lost in his own country. But I am no Indian. My 
mother was as pure a French woman as ever crossed the 
Canadian border, and I, her only son, was left fatherless 
before I can remember. But the Indians were kind, and 
my mother became the squaw of an Indian chief. But 
long ago she went to join her first love. Since then I 
have lived entirely among the Crees, hunter, trapper, 
and guide. My wife, a Cree, and the only son I 
have left of two, you see before you. Of the other one 
I now speak. It was seven years ago in September. A 
party of fur traders came to the fort to engage me to 
guide them over this same route in a canoe to Fort 
Chipewyan. I knew it w^ould be late before I could re- 
turn, but they offered well, and wt started Immediately, 
taking my oldest boy — a lad of fourteen — with me. 
Much difficulty was experienced in getting down. The 
ice had begun to form and we had much bad weather, 
but we finally reached the fort, and after settling satis- 
factorily started back by way of an old trail which 
runs more direct than the river. I figured to reach 
home in about eight days. After traveling nearly a 
day, a rain set in, accompanied with sleet, and soon 
everything was covered with ice. On reaching a creek 
we found the water so high we could not cross, 
and cutting some small pines with my hatchet 
we threw them across the stream, but when 
we attempted to cross they slipped from under 
us and we plunged into the water. I succeeded 
in reaching the other side, but my boy was carried 
27 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

down stream and finally caught by some driftwood, 
when I threw hira the end of a pole and drew him to 
shore. But my gun and pack containing our provisions 
were lost in the rushing waters. Our matches were 
wet and useless, and there was not a camp for sixty 
miles ahead. The only thing to do was to return to 
the fort. So following up the stream to where the 
water seemed more shallow we forded it with some 
difficulty and started towards the fort. Night came 
on cold and dark, with snow falling in great flakes, 
until the trees and bushes bent under its great weight. 
Soon it became very dark, but we dared not stop walk- 
ing, for in our wet clothes we were chilled through 
and through. In vain I tried to follow the trail, but 
It was no use. In a blind way we kept traveling. We 
had eaten nothing since leaving the fort, and hunger 
began to gnaw at our vitals. The snow continued to 
fall, and at daybreak was nearly a foot deep. The cold 
was intense. I tried to discover our course, but snow 
and ice was everywhere. Our clothes were frozen. 
Still we trudged on until my poor boy sank down com- 
pletely exhausted. I tried to encourage him, saying the 
fort must be near now. I took him on my back and 
started on, but it was of no use. We should have 
reached the fort long before this, but everything looked 
strange. Not a familiar object greeted our sight. Must 
we perish? I scraped the bark from the small trees 
and ate it with relish, but my poor boy was sick and 
feverish. Drawing an old pack strap from my coat I 
scraped it thin, and he chewed this and seemed to re- 
28 



DOWN THE ATHABASCA RIVER 

vive. Again we started. Soon we came to a stream of 
water. Where were we? A familiar object caught my 
eye. I ran to the spot. It was where I had cut down 
the small pines to throw across, twenty-four hours be- 
fore. My heart sank within me. Scraping away the 
snow from under the drooping branches of a large 
hemlock I cut some boughs, and after shaking off the 
snow laid them down for a bed, on which I now laid 
my beloved boy. Taking off my coat I covered him as 
best I could. He was already asleep. I watched him 
for a moment, then kissing his hot cheek I started on a 
run. I could follow the trail now. Forty miles be- 
fore help can be reached. A horrible fear came over 
me. Shall I ever see my dear boy alive again! My 
head whirled, still I ran on. All night and all day I 
kept on. My body seemed paralyzed and my vitals on 
fire. I tore the strings and tops from my moccasins, 
chewing and swallowing them in my distraction. At 
last I reached the fort just able to point back on my 
trail and whisper, 'Go! Go! Go quick!' The next I 
remember I was lying In bed with cold, wet cloths on 
my head. Some one was saying, 'He Is better now.' I 
turned my head and asked. Where Is my boy?' But 
no answer came." 

Here Captain Shot's hands clasped his head and he 
was convulsed with weeping. "We must go now,' 
said our guests, and they started for the door of the 
tent. "And what about the boy?" says I, touching the 
arm of the last one out, "the wolves had got there first,'* 
was the only reply. 

29 



IV 
The Perils of the Rapids, Etc. 

Mountain Portage 

Leaving Fort McMurray we continued our journey 
down stream. But being without a guide, we pro- 
ceeded with caution, camping on the banks of the river 
at night, and making the best time possible during the 
day. The weather was now fine and the sun shone 
forth warm and bright, with scarcely a breath of air. 
A constant splash of the oar and the occasional shouts 
of the men, as some other boat would heave in sight or 
some object of interest meet their gaze, served to break 
the monotony of our surroundings, while birds of many 
species sang in the thick, green clumps of shrubbery 
that girded the shore. On the second day of June we 
met the small steamer Graham owned by the Hudson's 
Bay Company, which plies between Fort McMurray 
and Smith's Landing, a distance of two hundred and 
ninety miles, distributing supplies to the different 
forts along the line and bringing back the winter's 
catch of fur. As they came opposite our scow, steam 
was shut off, and throwing us a line they spent a half- 
hour in chatting and inquiring where we were going 
and what was our prospects, and ended by giving us 
much useful information regarding the route. 

30 



THE PERILS OF THE RAPIDS, ETC. 

While watching out for a good place to camp, late 
one afternoon, we came to where a small creek emptied 
into the river, and decided to put out our gillnet, as 
we had not tasted fish since leaving Athabasca Landing, 
So while the other two pitched the tent, Thompson and 
myself stretched the net across the mouth of the creek. 
Ducks had been so plentiful all along the trip that often 
large flocks w^re passed, which were allowed to swim to 
the opposite side of the river unmolested. And now, as 
v/e stood watching our net, a large flock came swimming 
down the creek to the river. But as our net reached 
several inches above the water they were unable to pro- 
ceed, and swam back and forth, uttering low sounds of 
astonishment, much to our amusement. Soon, how- 
ever, the leader seemed to decide upon a way to over- 
come the difficulty without resorting to flight, and 
swimming up w^ithin several feet of the net dove out of 
sight, followed by the whole flock. The next moment 
our net was bobbing up and down as if it intended tear- 
ing itself loose from the stakes that held it taut. Soon 
several ducks arose to the surface gasping for breath, 
and with a frightened squawk went sailing up the creek. 
We waited until all was quiet, and then proceeded to 
examine our catch. As we drew the net to shore several 
large holes could be seen, but entangled in the meshes 
w^ere eight as fine mallards as I ever saw. The net was 
replaced, and the ducks dressed for supper. The next 
morning a single fish of about two pounds was all the 
net contained, but we felt well paid for our trouble, and 
started on our journey with a laughing remark about 

31 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

our queer and remarkable catch. That night we 
reached Athabasca Lake, into which the river empties. 
This body of water is about ten miles wide and fifty 
in length. But by keeping close to the south shore we 
crossed to the lower end of the lake and soon reached 
Fort Chipewyan, which is situated at the west end of 
Athabasca Lake. 

This fort is built upon a foundation of solid, red 
granite. In fact, the whole lake front for a half-mile 
back from the water is solid rock, not a shrub nor blade 
of grass nor a bit of living vegetation is to be seen along 
the beach, which is naught but a mass of rough, rolling, 
red rock. Several cabins are built near the fort, while, 
back on the hillside a small mission surrounded by In- 
dian huts and shanties can be seen. The fort is gov- 
erned entirely by the Hudson's Bay Company, and com- 
prises a store where merchandise suitable for trade with 
the natives is kept, a warehouse for furs, and a small 
apartment said to be used by the Northwest mounted 
police when required, but no such officers were to be 
seen during our stay. 

Here we first met with the slave Indians, who re- 
semble the Crees except in their habits of living. They 
are said to be more intelligent and industrious, living 
entirely in huts and cabins, instead of tepees, as 
do the Crees. After a day spent in overhauling 
and repitching our scow, we left Fort Chipewyan, 
and, entering the Slave River, proceeded on our 
journey. The stream is slow and sluggish, and 
much work was encountered. But by treking the 

32 



THE PERILS OF THE RAPIDS, ETC. 

scow, using a long line where the banks would 
permit, we made very good time, and reached the 
junction of the Peace River in two days. It was now 
the 1 2th day of June, but a cold rain set in, accom- 
panied with snow, and we were obliged to camp for 
several days before we proceeded uninterruptedly. Our 
net was set out and several fish taken. But time 
dragged slowly, and it was with thankful hearts that 
we again saw the sky clear, and pushed on with renewed 
vigor. Many pelicans were seen on this river, either 
standing in the shallow water or soaring high above us, 
following the course of the stream, but being unfit for 
f-^od we did not molest them. A few days brought us 
to Smith's Landing, where for sixteen miles is a con- 
tinuous succession of rapids and no less than six port- 
ages, some of which caused us to repent that we had 
ever undertaken such a lamentable pursuit. And 
speaking of mosquitos! One would think that they had 
been banished not only from New Jersey, but all the 
States of the Union and those of Mexico as well, and 
had taken up their permanent abode at Smith's Land- 
ing. Mosquito netting came quickly into use, for the 
farther w^e went the more ravenous they became, until 
the whole atmosphere seemed full of swarming daggers 
ready to pierce us at first opportunity. Even the na- 
tive dogs could be seen running and howling, and often 
plunging into the water to rid themselves of the tor- 
mentors. A guide was now indispensable, and many 
boats were waiting to be piloted over this — the most 
hazardous part of all the trip. After some delay we 

^ 33 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

succeeded In closing a bargain with one Jim Sanderson, 
a Slave Indian, to pilot us to Fort Smith for $40. That 
afternoon we started down the rapids. Here the river 
narrowed with a deep, swift channel near the right 
bank, and only an experienced guide could have kept our 
boat^off the rocks that nearly grazed Its sides as we shot 
past Into the foaming waters below. At times we were 
obliged to row with all our strength, and again a warn- 
ing shout from the guide would oblige us to lift our 
oars high above our heads or w^hlrl them Inside the boat, 
as a large boulder or rockbound shore appeared to shoot 
past us. Soon the rapids became so swift and the water 
so shallow, with rocks sharp and dangerous to encoun- 
ter, that we decided to portage our cargo and run the 
empty boat down until navigation became less dan- 
gerous. So our party willingly set to portaging the 
goods, and allowed the guide to navigate the scow as 
he thought best. Day after day the work went on, and 
although no incident occurred to us, many a hairbreadth 
escape was added to our experiences, and often a 
plunge-bath was given us that we were least expecting. 
But one day, after we had become more used to the 
dangers through which we were passing, we witnessed 
an incident which causes me to shudder even now when 
I think of it, and the consternation and excitement 
of which nearly proved fatal to one of our crew. Hav- 
ing reached a bend in the river the stream became more 
narrow and very swift and deep, with a fall of several 
feet. Below the falls the river had formed a basin, and 
after whirling about flowed gently on its course. At 

34 



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THE PERILS OF THE RAPIDS, ETC. 

the farther end of this basin lay a large boulder, which 
a boat coming down the rapids would certainly strike 
except for the sweep which the guide always handled, 
and which if turned to one side would cause the boat to 
just pass the rock and shoot away down the river. 
Several boats had already passed in safety, and our scow 
with cargo and crew had just entered the channel, 
where the water was far too swift for us to turn back, 
when the boat ahead of us was seen to shoot over the 
falls. But as it dropped down the sweep was lifted 
off the pivot which held it to the stern of the boat. The 
next instant a crash was heard, and the boat appeared 
to stand on end for an instant and then settle back 
directly in the path of our onrushing scow. Our crew 
v/as instantly thrown into the greatest confusion, and 
one of the men, being an excitable fellow, attempted to 
spring overboard (with the sure result of instant death) 
had not some of the cooler heads caught him and jerked 
him back into the boat. In a moment more our scow 
shot down the falls, and striking against the half-sub- 
merged boat sheered safely off into the stream. The 
next instant the water closed forever over the un- 
fortunate boat with its precious load. The guide had 
jumped with the sweep just before striking the rock and 
escaped injury. But the poor miners (four in number), 
not knowing of the accident to the sw^ep, made no 
effort to escape and received the full force of the shock. 
One was dashed against the rock, killing him instantly; 
while two others were seen lying insensible in the bot- 
tom of the boat, and sank to rise no more. The fourth, 

35 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

though badly bruised, probably recovered, but being 
without supplies, decided to return when the steamer 
arrived again. 

The next day we pushed on and reached the moun- 
tain portage. Here the rapids were impassible, and our 
scow, with all its contents, had to be taken over a sand 
hill one hundred feet high and a half-mile long. This 
was the greatest obstacle we encountered in all our 
journey, and four days were spent in performing the 
most tiresome and heaviest labor I ever experienced. 
These were, indeed, dark days. With innumerable 
mosquitoes by night and vast swarms of flies whose 
ferocious appetites by day made existence almost an 
impossibility, it is wonderful how we got through 
it all. Large horseflies swarmed about us, whose bite 
equaled the sting of a bee. The last rapids were finally 
passed, and once more we breathed freely. On June 
22d we reached Fort Smith, where we found the Hud- 
son's Bay Company's steamer The Wrigley about ready 
to start down stream. She is a side-wheeler of about fifty 
tons, and has accommodations for forty people besides 
the crew, who are all Indians except the captain. Sev- 
eral fur traders from the Hudson's Bay Company were 
on board with their stock of merchandise for the differ- 
ent forts along the Mackenzie River, while enroute for 
McPherson, which is the terminus of their route. Fort 
McPherson is situated on the Peel River, one hundred 
and sixty miles from the Arctic Coast, and is the head- 
quarters for explorers, miners, and fur traders of the 
Arctic region. While at Fort Smith we met with sev- 



THE PERILS OF THE RAPIDS, ETC. 

aral Government officers known as the Northwestern 
mounted police, although a horse Is not known to be 
found north of Athabasca Landing. In conversation 
with one of these young fellows, I asked him what 
they found to do in such a wild country as this. "Aw," 
he replied, *'we are the mounted police, do n't you 
know." We often saw them farther down the river 
with red turban caps tilted to one side of their head, 
but always the same jolly good fellows, and often they 
gave us a good turn by way of reliable information 
concerning the route. The next day about nine o'clock 
a favorable wind sprang up, and hoisting sail we ran 
about seventy-five miles before landing. 

That night the steamer Wrigley passed us with 
no less than a dozen boats in tow. But the weather was 
fine, and we decided to navigate our own boat and save 
the $50 It would cost us to be towed along by the 
steamer. The nights were balmy and warm, and our 
boat was kept continually on the move. The camp 
stove was set up on the front deck, and thereafter our 
meals were all taken on board ship. A bed was made 
up on the tops of the sacks of flour near the rear deck, 
and while two would sleep the others kept the scow in 
motion. The small tent was raised above the rear por- 
tion of the boat as a protection from the sun by day 
and the dampness by night, for the showers were fre- 
quent and came often upon us suddenly with hardly a 
moment's warning. Game being abundant along the 
shore of the river, our ever-ready rifles kept us well sup- 
plied with venison and wild fowl. Ducks and geese 

37 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

were continually passing us back and forth in their 
flight as they followed the course of the river, and 
often a brood of young ones, accompanied by the 
mother, could be seen ahead of the boat swimming with 
all their might in a vigorous effort to get away. These 
were always watched with great interest, but never 
harmed or molested. 

We were now nearing Fort Resolution. The 
river began to widen, the banks became lower and more 
level, indicating its proximity to the Great Slave Lake 
inlo which the river empties. On reaching the fort 
we immediately landed, and pitching the big tent trans- 
ferred our cargo inside. The scow was then turned bot- 
tom side up preparatory to calking and pitching, of 
which it stood largely in need since the severe strain oc- 
casioned by encountering so many rapids. 

This Indian village is surrounded with heavy tim- 
ber, pine, hemlock, maple, and spruce towering high 
above the houses, affording protection from the storms 
of winter and the heat of the short summer. Several 
native men and women came sauntering down to the 
beach as we landed, and scores of children, clad in all 
manner of costumes, watched us from the edge of the 
timber, chatting to each other In their native dialect 
as the work proceeded. "Children of the woods," with 
no aspirations or education, how little they know or 
imagine of the great outside world! But such is the 
life of the Indian In the Northland. 



38 



Fort Resolution 

"Skin for Skin" — The Great Slave Lake— Dead 
Man's Island — Lost in the Mountains — 
Timber Wolves 

Fort Resolution is situated on the north shore of 
Great Slave Lake, and is one of the largest forts along 
the route. This place is noted for the vast amount of 
valuable furs caught in the vicinity. Bear, wolf, fox, 
wolverine, otter, marten, mink, and muskrat are found 
near the lake, while moose, caribou, and mountain sheep 
furnish meat in abundance. Fishing is also carried on 
here with great success, many tons being dried every 
summer for winter's use. We set our nets and were 
rewarded with some of the finest specimens of trout and 
salmon I ever « saw. Fort Resolution has a settlement 
of no less that eight hundred inhabitants, Indians 
and half-breeds. They are all engaged in hunt- 
ing and trapping, and every one of them is abso- 
lutely dependent upon the Hudson's Bay Company 
for every article of domestic use, except what na- 
ture provides in the way of skins and meat. Very 
little money is used, and I doubt if many of the 

39 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

Slave Indians would know its value, while the coast 
natives, or Eskimos, are in total ignorance of any 
money or its value. A marten or mink skin is called 
*'one skin," and is valued at 50 cents; a red fox is 
"two skins," or $1 ; wolverine or otter is "ten skins," 
or $5 ; while a dog or rifle is valued at "twenty skins," 
which is $10; silver or black foxes are more valuable, 
and often bring lOO skins, or $50. But it must be re- 
membered that these are all paid for in trade at the 
following prices (which are the Hudson's Bay Com- 
pany's standard prices to all Indians) : calico, per 
yard, i skin; muslin, per yard, 2 skins; tea, per pound, 
4 skins; sugar, per pound, 2 skins; flour (25-pound 
sack) , 10 skins; common wool blankets, 50 skins; while 
beads, jewelry, and the like depend upon the demand. 
It will be plainly seen that the double profit is all on 
the side of the company and not the Indians, although 
the Biblical quotation "Skin for skin" is over the door 
of the store in plain English. 

On June 26th, the wind being fair, we started to 
cross Great Slave Lake. But when about fourteen 
miles out from shore a strong wind sprang up and we 
were obliged to change our course, and landed on a 
small island called Dead Man's Island, it having been 
a burying place for the Indians for many years. This 
island, not connecting with the main land, prevented 
the disturbance of the graves by howling animals. 
Many peculiar-shaped stones and articles of dress, 
carved from both wood and ivory, could be seen scat- 
tered about; also arrow heads, stone axes, and beads 
40 



FORT RESOLUTION 

in abundance. All of these things are sacred to the 
Indians, and are never disturbed. But our party, not 
being capable of appreciating such sacredness, added 
several of these ''Possessions in the Happy Hunting 
Grounds" to our collections. For two days we were 
kept on this island, but the morning of the third day we 
crossed to the main land, and by keeping well in shore, 
crossing from one point of land to another, made very 
good progress, and in three days more ran into the 
mouth of Buffalo River, where we pitched our tent and 
put out the net as fish seemed to be abundant. A good 
catch was taken which proved to be suckers, and we 
traded them to the natives to feed to their dogs. 

The next day we reached the Hay River, which is 
only twenty miles from the west end of the lake, and 
pushing on we reached the Mackenzie River the 
same night. Navigation was now good, as this river 
is deep and nearly a mile wide. The Mackenzie is one 
of the grandest streams in the Northwest. Sir Alexan- 
der Mackenzie, whose name is written in broad char- 
acters across the annals of the Northwest, discovered 
this river in the year 1789, and during the same year 
undertook the exploration of this great water course 
from Great Slave Lake north to the Arctic Ocean. He 
was accompanied on this trip by eight men and seven 
women, with four canoes arranged as follows: A 
German and four Canadians with their wives in the 
first; the second was occupied by a northern Indian 
called English Chief, who was accompanied by his two 
wives; the third was taken up by two sturdy young 

41 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

savages who served in the double capacity of hunters 
and interpreters ; while the fourth was laden with pro- 
visions, clothing, ajmmunition, and various articles 
designed as presents to the Indians. On the I2th day 
of July this intrepid young Scotch explorer reached the 
arm of the Arctic Ocean, into which the river discharges 
its waters, and the sight he saw was just what is to be 
seen to-day. They continued their course to the west- 
ern extremity of a high island, and then found it im- 
possible to proceed farther. On landing at a deserted 
Eskimo encampment they found pieces of whalebone, 
and saw where the train oil had been spilt, but the 
red fox, the reindeer, flocks of beautiful plover, some 
venerable white owls, and several seagulls were the 
only natives. But Mackenzie knew that he had tri- 
umphed, for as he stood on the promontory of Whale 
Island he caught sight of a shoal of those marine mon- 
sters from which the island receives its name. 

Fort Providence was passed seventy miles down 
stream, but the water was swift and the wind favorable, 
and we did not stop. At Fort Simpson the Laird River 
empties into the Mackenzie, and many flattering re- 
ports came to us of the rich gold strikes several miles 
up the river. Consequently all the miners turned up 
the Laird River and we were left to pursue our jour- 
ney alone. Our place of destination had been decided 
upon before leaving civilization, and we could not 
be persuaded to change our plans. Our hearts were 
set on a certain location at the headwaters of the Old 
Crow River, along the foothilk of the Davidson Moun- 

42 



FORT RESOLUTION 

tains, lying between the Arctic Coast and the Porcupine 
River. And our chart told us that a crossing could 
easily be effected by way of Rat River and McDougal 
Pass, with a portage of only half a mile. But in case this 
did not prove advisable, we expected to continue our 
course to the Arctic Ocean and enter some of the rivers 
flowing from the mountains, and from there make our 
way across with dog teams during the coming winter. 

On reaching the Nahannie River we observed that 
the water seemed alive with large fish, which were 
making the water fly as they sported about. Thinking 
to make a good haul we took one end of our net in the 
skiff, and making a little detour we used it as a seine 
and quickly drew it to shore. I never felt such heavy 
tugging at a net, and we flattered ourselves that we 
were taking a big catch. But as we drew near shore 
it became lighter, and on landing a sorry sight met our 
gaze; the net was torn with holes of all sizes and com- 
pletely ruined, while entangled in Its meshes were two 
swordfish about five feet in length. We had attacked 
a school of swordfish, and it cost us our net. 

Game was now abundant, and many Indians were 
met with from time to time, who supplied us with 
fresh meat, fish, moccasins, and fur. They also fur- 
nished us with fresh blueberries, which grew on the 
southern side of the mountains thereabouts, and which 
were greatly appreciated by us. In exchange we gave 
them tea, a little flour, and some tobacco, which were 
greatly appreciated by them. Passing Fort Wrigley, 
we soon arrived at Fort Norman, where the Bear River 

43 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

empties into- the Mackenzie. Here we first met with 
the Hare Indians, so called from the numerous hares 
that Inhabit the vicinity of Bear Lake, and the skins 
of which are much used by the natives for clothing. 

Our party had on the 15th of July crossed the 
Arctic Circle, near Fort Norman, and was now press- 
ing on toward our journey's end. Great cakes of ice 
could be seen along shore, left there in early summer, 
when the ice had broken up and gorged the river, 
causing it to overflow its banks. Vegetation now be- 
came more dwarfed and stunted, and the river bed 
became wider, with low, marshy banks on either side. 
Far ahead could be seen the upper ramparts with their 
perpendicular walls of solid rock, through which the 
river rushed and tumbled in Its haste to reach the 
ocean, while off to the left could be seen the northern 
spur of the Rocky Mountains, with their snow-capped 
peaks glistening In the sunlight. 

On reaching the upper ramparts, which are located 
near the foot of the mountain, we decided to camp 
for a day and make a trip Into the mountains for 
the purpose of procuring a supply of fresh blueberries, 
and possibly get a shot at mountain sheep, having 
observed several fine specimens of the Big Horn family 
while coming down the stream, but always too far 
away for a shot. It was early In the day when we set 
out with rifles and a pail well filled with lunch. We 
found that the mountains, though appearing but a short 
distance away, were not reached until nearly noon. 
We picked a few berries, ate our lunch, and while 

'44 



FORT RESOLUTION 

the rest of the party laid down for a short rest, I, 
eager to get the first shot, started up the mountain- 
side. For an hour I ch'mbed up, following the ravines 
and washouts, without seeing any sign of the wily 
game; finally reaching a level spot, I sat down and 
took in the surroundings. Far below, a small wreath 
of smoke curling upward marked the spot where we 
had eaten our noonday lunch ; the men, appearing like 
midgets, could be seen lingering near the fire. Put- 
ting my hands to my mouth I shouted, ''Hello!" but 
the sound of my voice failed to reach them, although 
I continued to shout for several minutes. Looking 
to the eastward, I could discern a small lake, from 
which a winding stream flowed out toward the river. 
Patches of scrub timber and thick buckthorn brush 
and briers could be seen in the lowlands, but higher 
up the mountain-side the bare rocks glistened as the 
water trickled over them from the melting snow which 
covered the crest of the mountain. 

Casting my eyes carefully along the mountain ridge, 
my heart gave a bound as I beheld against the in- 
terminable whiteness five mountain sheep standing ap- 
parently watching my maneuvers. A high, rocky ledge 
prevented a nearer approach, and casting about for a 
moment I soon discovered a ravine or watercourse 
some distance away, leading up directly to where the 
game was standing. Crouching low, I made my way 
with all possible speed and reached the ravine in a 
few moments. I was now hidden entirely from view, 
an3 made my way as fast as possible toward the top. 

45 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

It was a toilsome climb, but my courage was up and 
I did not halt until I had reached the summit. Peer- 
ing about in all directions, I saw that my game had 
for some reason moved farther away, probably having 
winded me, and was now out of reach of my rifle. 
As I peered about, I seemed to have entered a new 
world; snow lay all about me. The top of the moun- 
tain was level for acres around, which was completely 
cut up by the sharp hoofs of the Big Horn while feed- 
ing on the moss which covers the rocks. The air was 
cold and crisp, although the sun was shining bright, 
and a feeling of exhaustion came over me, caused by 
the high altitude. Resting a few moments, I again 
started in pursuit. I could plainly see they were 
watching my movements, and turning my face the 
other way, I made a detour, but all the while walk- 
ing sidewise and approaching nearer at every step. 
As there was no place of concealment, I decided to 
keep drawing nearer until within gunshot, or until 
they ran to a more favorable spot to be reached. I 
was nearly within shooting distance when I saw the 
leader spring into the air and strike the ground stiff- 
legged, a performance which was repeated several 
times, and then they followed their leader and went 
bounding down the side of the mountain. Raising 
my rifle to my shoulder, I fired several shots, but the 
distance was too great, for they continued to run 
and w^ere soon lost in the fog that suddenly enveloped 
the whole side of the mountain below the snow line. 
I continued to survey this great table with its snow- 

46 



FORT RESOLUTION 

white covering, when suddenly the thought came to 
me that It must be nearly night and I was a long way 
from camp. On looking at my watch for the first 
time, I found It to be eight o'clock. The sun, while 
still above the horizon, was veiled by a cloud of mist, 
and with all haste I started to retrace my steps. I 
had only gone a short distance when new objects ap- 
peared before me, so changing my course, I hastened 
to descend at the nearest point, but on consulting my 
compass, found that I was going In the opposite direc- 
tion from where our camp was supposed to be. In 
vain I looked for some ravine or Indenture In which 
to descend, but all along the ledge was perpendicular 
rock. I started on a run, and finally came to a place 
where the shell rock had been carried down by a recent 
snowsllde, leaving a depression, and down this I hur- 
ried. As I began to descend, darkness gathered round 
me, and I soon found myself completely enveloped In 
a thick fog and could scarcely see any distance before 
me. A heavy mist was falling, and Ipw, muttering 
thunder could be heard, accompanied with flashes of 
lightning. I carefully picked my way, but received 
many falls by stepping on the loose shell rock, which 
gave way under my weight. For hours I kept on, 
and It seemed I never would reach the foothills. A 
heavy rain was now falling, and I was wet to the skin. 
I could not see the hand to my compass, and had no 
Idea which way to go when I reached the foot of the 
mountain. I endeavored to strike a light, but my 
matches were wet and useless. In a blind way I wan- 

47 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

dered on. Then the thought came to me of my com- 
panions, and If they were still waiting they might hear 
a shot, and acting accordingly, I discharged my rifle 
several times In quick succession. I then listened, but 
no answer could be heard. My heart sank within me. 
I was lost. Two thousand miles from civilization, 
with a prospect of spending the night In this wild 
country, with no protection, were the thoughts that 
came rushing through my brain. I stopped and tried 
to reason, but the situation was beyond my power to 
solve. For the first time I realized that I was chilled 
and that Ice was forming upon my clothing. I must 
keep moving, and blindly hurried on. Soon I came 
to a deep ravine and could hear the water rushing 
along; a new thought flashed Into my mind. By fol- 
lowing down stream I might reach the river into which 
the stream no doubt emptied. Placing my hand In the 
water to ascertain which way It flowed, I Immediately 
began to follow Its course. My progress was much 
Impeded by rocks and brier bushes, but for hours I 
kept on until suddenly the stream widened, and I found 
myself wading nearly knee-deep In water. A bright 
flash of lightning revealed my situation ; I was standing 
out several yards Into a lake; it was the one I had 
observed from the rocky ledge. Retracing my steps 
until again on land, I stopped to reflect, and If possible 
to locate my position, when suddenly I was aroused 
from my reverie by a sound that caused my heart to 
jump and my blood to curdle In my veins. Again it 
came echoing down from the mountains, a long drawn- 

48 



FORT RESOLUTION 

out howl. I could not be mistaken, for many times 
before I had heard that same plaintive howl when 
safely in camp, and had heard the natives tell heart- 
rending stories of the lives destroyed by these large 
timber wolves of the coast mountains. Again the 
sound came, louder than before, and immediately an 
answering howl from high up in the mountains. I 
started on a run around the lake, filling the magazine 
of my rifle with cartridges as I ran. On I rushed, 
stumbling over rocks and brushwood in my great 
fright. The sound came nearer and nearer, until it 
seemed to me that the mountains were filled with 
wolves, coming after me as fast as possible. I now 
gave myself up as lost, but determined to fight until 
the last. My belt was still well-filled with cartridges, 
and my "44.40 Marlin" could be relied upon. If it 
were only daylight, but the thick fog and darkness were 
against me. 

I had been a professed Christian for years, and 
now the end had come, would my faith still hold? 
I was not afraid to die, but O! such a death. The 
thoughts of my loved ones came before me— my loving 
wife, who would never know; my only daughter, who 
had given me the little Bible when I left home; my 
two sons, who would be looking for father to come 
back, and the suspense of all that waiting. I lifted 
my heart to God in earnest prayer for deliverance, and 
the solemn vow of that awful moment is known only 
to Him. The foremost of the pack was now within a 
few yards of me, and I could hear their feet splashing 

49 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

through the water. I raised my rifle and fired in the 
direction of the oncoming pack, but they did not stop. 
I could now discern dark objects moving swiftly 
toward me, but the howling ceased except from those 
farther back on the trail. I fired until my cartridges 
were nearly exhausted. Several times my fire was fol- 
lowed by a yelp of pain, assuring me that my aim had 
not gone amiss. During this battling I had been 
moving backwards, and now found myself backed up 
against a large clump of buckthorn bushes. I could 
go no farther. The fangs of the whole pack were 
snapping all about me. But one single cartridge re- 
mained in the magazine of my rifle; I must make 
that one count. Taking deliberate aim, I fired at the 
nearest, and then sprang recklessly into the thicket of 
thorns. Suddenly from out of the center of the thorn 
patch sprang a large buck caribou, and with a shake 
of his great antlers he bounded away toward the moun- 
tains with the whole pack in hot pursuit. I struggled 
out of the thorns, scratching and tearing my flesh and 
clothing, and started on a run. I could still hear 
the howling of the wolves, but they were moving back 
toward the mountains, and I exerted all my remaining 
strength in putting the greatest distance possible be- 
tween us. Soon several shots were heard in quick suc- 
cession, and I knew I was being sought for by my 
companions. I shouted with all my might, and soon 
the sonorous voice of Jack was heard off to the west- 
ward. I hastened in the direction of the voice, when 
I was suddenly startled by some animal that came 

50 



FORT RESOLUTION 

bounding toward me. Fortunately my last cartridge 
was gone, for the next moment our faithful ''Sport" 
came springing up before me, barking and whining a 
doggish welcome. We reached camp at two o'clock in 
the morning, where we remained until I was again able 
to travel, for the experience of that night had nearly 
caused nervous prostration. But I have never ceased 
to be grateful to my Heavenly Father for so miracu- 
lously delivering me from death by timber wolves. 



51 



VI 
In the Land of the Midnight Sun 

We First Meet With the Eskimo 

Passing Fort Good Hope, we reached the Red River, 
Into which we rowed, and pitching our tent, spent 
several days in fishing and trading with the natives. 
Here we met with the Loucheux or Mountain Indian, 
from whom we procured moccasins, snowshoes, several 
skins, and four dogs. They appeared very intelligent, 
speaking English quite well, and gave us much valu- 
able Information concerning the route across the Porcu- 
pine River, adding that such a trip was impossible at 
that season of the year. The goods, they Informed 
us, must all be portaged for thirty miles with dog- 
sleds during the winter. The Red River Is noted on 
account of the abundance of fish taken from Its waters. 
Many of the natives were here engaged In catching 
and drying fish on which to winter their dogs. 

Pushing on, we soon reached the Peel River, where 
we camped for several days. This is the direct water- 
course from Fort McPherson to the Arctic Ocean. 
Fort McPherson Is the terminus of the Hudson's Bay 
Company's route, and Is the last trading post reached 
by their steamers. Many boatloads of Eskimos from 

52 



IN THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN 

the Arctic Coast were now seen, rowing their long 
skin boats up stream, loaded with fur, to meet the 
traders which arrive at this season of each year by 
the Hudson's Bay Company's steamer. We could only 
communicate with them by signs, but succeeded in 
trading tea, tobacco, sugar, and calico for moccasins, 
several deer skins, and two Husky dogs. 

Vegetation was now growing rarer, and the stunted 
growth of shrubs and briers as we journeyed northward 
denoted the proximity of the ocean. The nights were 
illuminated by the incessant light of the sun, which 
enabled us to continue our navigation by day and night. 
Pushing on, we soon reached the delta of the Mac- 
kenzie, with the great Arctic Ocean before us. As far 
as the eye could reach, huge ice floes floated upon its 
surface. No signs of vegetable life existed along the 
barren coast, and the vastness and weirdness of the 
w^onderful light effect cast over ice and sky intensified 
the iQneliness of our condition. Crossing the lagoon, 
we continued our course along the south coast, dodg- 
ing the icebergs that were ever revolving, threatening 
our frail boat with sudden destruction, while their 
thundering and booming were deafening to our ears. 
Many seals were observed rearing their sleek, shining 
forms nearly out of the water and turning their heads 
quickly each way, with eyes almost human, seeming to 
wonder at our abrupt intrusion into their element. 
For three days and nights we battled with the waves, 
unable to land on account of the rocky coast, against 
which the breakers dashed high and fiercely. But on 

S3 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

the morning of August 12th we rounded Kay Point 
and entered the Babbage River, expecting to reach the 
head waters of this stream before stopping, but the 
water was swift, and cold weather was coming on, so 
we decided to winter near the coast, and accordingly 
we cast about for a suitable location for our winter 
quarters. Rowing up this river about two miles, we 
discovered a small stream of fresh water flowing in 
from the south. Here the river widened, forming a 
small bay, the shore of which was piled high with drift- 
wood. This, then, was the place nature had provided 
for our Arctic abode. Cutting away the turf, we 
made an excavation several feet deep near the foot of 
a southern slope and began building our cabin. Logs 
of driftwood were cut and fitted into place, and the 
cracks chinked with moss, and the roof covered with 
turf and dirt. 

We soon discovered that we were not the sole 
occupants of the bluff, for scores of marmots (some- 
what resembling the prairie dog) could be seen scam- 
pering from one hiding place to another, or sitting bolt 
upright at the top of their burrows, chattering and 
scolding at us for trespassing upon their rights. In 
a short time the cabin was finished, the scow drawn 
up close to the bank, and all our goods transferred to 
our new home, which we christened "Marmot Hill." 

We had not met with any Indians since we left 
Peel River, but were warmly and hilariously greeted 
by the natives of the coast, who met us as we landed 
at Kay Point, shouting and gesticulating in the wildest 

54 



IN THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN 

excitement. But while they appeared kind and oblig- 
ing, they could give us no information, being unable to 
speak a word of English, and it was only by signs 
that we could make ourselves partially understood. 

Dried fish and seal oil were set before us in great 
abundance, and with all hospitality and honor of the 
native custom, but we refused with as good grace as 
possible, whereat the whole company set to and soon 
the last vestige disappeared like magic down their 
throats. Afterwards, when climbing the rugged moun- 
tains, without wood to burn, hungry and footsore, how 
gladly we would have accepted even a meal of frozen 
fish! In a few days the snow began to fall, and soon 
covered us completely, making our cabin as warm and 
comfortable as if we were in our Southern home. The 
news of white men on the coast soon reached the neigh- 
boring tribes, and in a short time no less than a dozen 
snow huts were constructed and occupied undesirably 
near us. Men, women, and children swarmed around 
our cabin, and scores of thieving dogs made the nights 
hideous with their wolf-like howls. We soon learned 
enough of their language to ascertain that white men 
were wintering on an island several miles away, but 
who they were we could only conjecture. We now 
adopted the native dress, an outfit which, if not wholly 
elegant, was certainly comfortable. Our well-heated 
cabin did not call for more than ordinary warm cloth- 
ing, but the atmosphere outside, ranging from twenty- 
five to thirty degrees below zero, demanded fur and 
fur only. For four long winter months we dwelt thus 

55 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

among the Eskimo, often engaging in their caribou 
hunting and seal-catching exploits, as well as shooting 
the Arctic grouse that frequent the inland gulches in 
great numbers. Seals are the common feature of the 
Arctic Ocean, although found in every sea. These 
animals make the dreary life of the Eskimo a possi- 
bility. They not only furnish food for his table, oil 
for his lamp, clothing for his person, but even the bones 
and skins supply material for his boats and summer 
tents. The skin of the hair seal is covered vi^ith a 
short, bristly fur, some species having bizarre markings 
v^^hich appear very beautiful as they glisten in the sun- 
light. Among all the members of the phocine family, 
there is probably none that present a more beautiful 
and grotesque appearance than the spotted or ringed 
seal, found near East Cape. The skin of this seal, 
which shines like silver, is much prized by the natives, 
and also brings a fair price in our market. Fortunately 
we were successful in capturing several of these, which 
added a number of fine skins to our collection. 

One peculiarity of the spotted seal is the habit of 
building a snow hut over the breathing holes, which 
they provide for themselves in the ice, resembling an 
Eskimo igloo. On breaking into some of these huts we 
would sometimes find one or more young seals lying 
on the ice near the breathing holes. Whether these 
huts are built expressly to protect their young or not, 
I can not tell, but only the young of the spotted seal 
were found inside, w^hile scores of other young ones 
were found entirely unprotected. 

s6 



IN THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN 

These "pup seal," as they are called by the Arctic 
whalers, are generally found near the open water. 
They are very helpless, and when approached by us 
would turn their heads and stare at us with their large, 
human-like eyes, at the same time making no effort to 
get out of our reach. They appear to have the greatest 
dread of the water, and when pushed toward it set 
up a plaintive cry like a baby. Their skin is covered 
with a thick wool, like a young lamb. One of our 
men put one of the pup seals into the water, whjere it 
struggled and cried, the water soaking into its wool 
until it began to sink, and I have no doubt would 
have drowned if it had not been rescued from the 
water. 

At two months old they begin to shed their wool 
coat and the slick hair begins to take its place. It is 
then that the mother seal begins to force her young 
into the water, which they resist at first, and at night 
their cries can be heard for miles. 

The skin of the pup seal is much valued by dwellers 
of the coast for trimming and linings for their coats 
and hoods» 

Seals in the Arctic are captured in summer by 
means of long nets made of walrus skins, stretched 
along the edge of the open water and just beneath its 
surface. And in winter they are shot or speared 
through the ice as they come to their breathing holes. 
They are very wary, and as they raise their heads out 
of the water and turn to look each way; their move- 
ments are so quick that only the best and quickest 

57 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

marksman can get a shot before they have again dis- 
appeared. But when one ventures out on the ice, others 
vv^ill follow without hesitation. The Eskimo (who 
well understands their habits), having killed a seal, 
immediately cuts off the feet and, after attaching them 
to a long pole, shoves them along on the ice close to 
the water, turning them this way and that to imitate 
a live seal. Another seal, coming near the hole, hears 
the noise and, seeing the feet near the edge, fearlessly 
rears his head above the water, when the spear quickly 
ends his career. Polar bears are often seen standing 
near these holes, with one forepaw extended close to the 
edge and the other raised to give the deathblow, the 
pure white of their fur matching so admirably with the 
interminable whiteness of their surroundings as to make 
it most difficult for an unpracticed eye to see them. 

As Christmas time drew near, a good supply of 
provisions had been laid in with a view to giving our 
dusky neighbors a white man's dinner. But an un- 
looked-for turn of affairs changed our plans and gave 
us all a pleasant surprise. During one of these dark 
days (the sun had now ceased to shine, a dim twi- 
light continuing through the sky), we heard sleigh- 
bells at the door and the natives shouting at the top 
of their voices. Rushing out, imagine our surprise at 
seeing several white men, snugly wrapped in furs, with 
sledges drawn by a score or more of dogs, driving 
up to our door. The sight of white men brought a 
shout from our lips, and the welcome and hearty hand- 
shakes extended equaled the greetings of our demon- 

58 



IN THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN 

strative Eskimo neighbors. The strangers, who now 
made themselves known, were no less than the Rev. 
I. O. Stringer, a missionary at Herschel Island ; A. J. 
Stone, an Arctic explorer in the interest of the Amer- 
ican Museum of Natural History, with his guides, 
and two members of a whaling crew, who, with their 
vessel, the Mary D. Humej were wintering at Herschel 
Island. The missionary, having heard of us through 
the natives, had driven over to invite us to spend the 
holidays at the island, saying that they were going to 
give a Christmas dinner to all the inhabitants of the 
island and coast. This announcement surprised us 
greatly. To feed a multitude in that barren region, 
two thousand miles from civilization, in the dead of 
winter, seemed miraculous. Besides, we had thoroughly 
demonstrated this fact concerning the Eskimo, that 
their power to subsist without food is certainly outdone 
by their capacity for consuming it when the occasion 
offers. The invitation was, however, gladly accepted, 
and the day passed quickly and pleasantly. 

Mr. Stone, who had been stopping a few weeks 
at the island, was returning to his headquarters at 
Fort McPherson. His experience is an interesting 
one. Mr. Stringer had for several years been stationed 
at Peel River, among the Loucheux Indians, but re- 
cently came to Herschel Island to work among the 
coast natives, who are probably the most uncivilized 
class of people in all this northern region. He had 
learned their language, and was striving to lay the 
foundation for a Christian civilization. 

59 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

Many occupants of this island had proved them- 
selves to be apt pupils and could speak the English 
language quite Intelligently, w^hlle not a few had em- 
braced the Christian religion and attended regularly 
the services held at the Stringer Mission. Mr. Stringer, 
w^hlle acting as a missionary, w^as both teacher and 
preacher. The mission being supported entirely by the 
Church of England, and friends living at Toronto, 
Canada. 



'60 



VII 

An Arctic Christmas 

The Dark Days — Superstition^ — Love Making — 
Eskimo Life. 

Christmas comes to the fields of ice and snow as 
surely as it comes to the land of flowers. But not a 
Christmas of chiming bells, illuminated churches, and 
happy children. Out on the drifting ice-floes that break 
in the wind and current, the Polar bear growls and 
fights over a seal that he has caught, or the stranded 
carcass of a giant bowhead. And in the mountains, 
the home of the caribou and reindeer, the wolves are 
plotting for their holiday feast, while the adventurous 
traveler, facing the icy wind, tingles at its touch, and 
shivers as he thinks of his Southern home. Not so 
with the Eskimo who dwells on the Arctic coast. We 
gaze with wonder and perhaps disgust on a race of 
beings with human faculties and instincts, whose happi- 
ness consists in the possession of a warm garment, a 
feed of the ouk-chuck (blubber), and shelter from the 
extreme severity of the weather, be that shelter only 
a friendly snowbank. Still, these people laugh and 
grow fat amid the hardships and privations of a life 

6i 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

which is theirs b3^ necessity from the time when, 
strapped under their mother's "artiga," or poked away 
among the loose deer skins in the bottom of the canoe, 
they start on their first trip, until too old to travel 
or work, a burden to themselves and fellows, they 
are left in the deserted igloo to die. 

The time was now spent in preparation for our 
trip to the island. The sledges were put in readiness, 
the dog harness repaired, and the camps broken up, 
for when an Eskimo travels he takes all his possessions 
with him. Just at night the train was ready to start. 
The sky shaded from a light blue to a deep dark purple 
at the horizon. A beautiful aurora swayed Its great 
ribbon-like folds gracefully above us, as if stirred by a 
breeze. A brilliant electrical display tipped the royal 
purple of the North, as if in preparation for the fes- 
tivities of the season. The moon shone forth clear and 
bright as the runners took their places at the head of 
the pack, and with a babel of shouts and the cracking 
of many whips, away we went over the frosty snow 
and Ice. While the little ortes are tucked away among 
the warm fur robes, the rest of the family are expected 
to travel on foot, and it Is no uncommon sight to see 
a mother running ahead of the dogs for hours at a 
time with a child strapped to her back. Their power 
of endurance seems almost Incredible. For several 
hours we followed the coast, stopping now and then 
to shift a load or adjust a harness, while the shouts 
of the youngsters and the yelping of the dogs echoed 
and re-echoed through the adjacent hills. The speed 

62 



AN ARCTIC CHRISTMAS 

of the pack now began to increase, and with quick, 
sharp yelps they were away like the wind, leaving us 
far in the distance. The natives, too, seemed imbued 
with new life, and started off at a brisk trot. We fol- 
lowed on, and soon saw the whole train crowding 
around some dark object that loomed up before us 
like a huge sand-bar. On coming closer it proved to 
be the carcass of a large bowhead whale, stranded on 
the beach, which we learned had long been a feeding 
place for the natives, great chunks of blubber having 
been cut off and eaten raw, alike by men, women, chil- 
dren, and dogs. Our party declined an invitation to 
partake, and, after a short rest, changed our course 
and started across the ice directly toward the island. 
The cold was intense, and our great fur hoods, turned 
up and nearly covering our faces, served to keep out 
the frost. On reaching the island we observed the 
steam whaling vessel Mary D. Hume lying in a little 
sheltered cove, securely imbedded in the thickness of 
seven or eight feet of ice, and protected by a heavy 
snow embankment, above which spars and rigging 
stood out black and rigid against the surrounding and 
interminable whiteness. On every side and stretching 
into the far distance, land and ice merged in one, with 
no dividing line to mark where one ended and the 
other began. 

The inhabitants of the island turned out en masse 
to meet us, and while the natives turned into the al- 
ready overcrowded igloos, we were welcomed by Mr. 
Stringer and Captain Hagerty, and were soon en- 

63 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

sconced in the comfortable home of the former. The 
family consisted of Mr. and Mrs. Stringer, with their 
two-year-old daughter Rowena, a little golden-locks, 
who is the sunshine of the household and a very sweet 
child. The natives call her ''The White Fox." 

After partaking of a most appetizing meal, we 
were shown to our several couches, for day and night 
are all the same in the Polar regions at this season 
of the year. On awakening we found great prepara- 
tions in progress. The warehouse, adjoining the dwell- 
ing, was the receptacle for scores of ducks and grouse, 
all nicely plucked and ready for the oven, while several 
natives with dogs and sleds were busy hauling saddles 
of deer meat or caribou from an adjacent icehouse some 
distance away. Mounting the huge sled, we were 
quickly conveyed to the bluff where the icehouse had 
been constructed. It was an excavation in the frozen 
earth about eight feet below the surface, forming a 
large, square room, while the framework, covered with 
dirt, constituted the roof. The ground being con- 
tinually frozen, this cooler requires no ice and Is al- 
ways at the freezing point. Our host lighted a tallow 
dip and, leading the way, we followed him into this 
underground refrigerator. What a sight met our gaze ! 
Saddles of caribou and mountain sheep occupied nearly 
half the space, while wild fowl of every description 
were piled high against the frosty wall; white brant 
and several varieties of swan were found among the 
number, whose frozen bodies rattled about like rocks 
upon the floor. Fish of every size, from both salt and 

64 




REV. I. 0. STRINGER, 
Missionary at Herschel Island, N. W. T., with his family. 



AN ARCTIC CHRISTMAS 

fresh water, were frozen in solid masses. On top of 
the fish rested the carcasses of several seals In life-like 
positions. The missionary explained to us how he had 
taken advantage of the season by sending the natives out 
to hunt and fish, and many of them were now with- 
out sufficient food, had supplied them from time to time 
as necessity required. 

The Eskimo lives only for to-day, making but 
little preparation for the future. As the dinner was 
to be served on Christmas Eve (the next day being 
Sunday), preparations were now pushed forward to 
completion. Mottoes decorated the walls, while draw- 
ings of suitable design and highly-colored hung in 
profusion all about the room where the natives were 
to dine. The kitchen was a scene of busy bustle, and 
here the culinary skill of our hostess was wonderfully 
displayed. As the day advanced, bands of visiting 
Eskimos gathered in from different points along the 
coast and soon filled the room that was fitted up for 
their reception, and sitting on benches and boxes, or 
squatting on the floor, as is their custom, patiently 
awaited their turn. "All things are now ready and 
the multitude is at hand." And as the twenty whites 
first surrounded the long, rude table covered with the 
whitest of linen and groaning under its precious load, 
we wonder if this is really the barren, desolate Polar 
region of w^hich we have so often read. Caribou steak, 
roast mutton, pickled deer tongue, broiled liver, roast 
duck with dressing, fish and oysters, potatoes and peas, 
fruit cake, pyramid cake, and plum pudding with sauce, 

5 65 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

were the viands that graced this Christmas feast. As 
the white men arose from the table, missionary and 
miner, captain and crew, each turned waiter and pro- 
ceeded to serve their dusky brethren. As every native 
carries a belt knife, the victuals were set before them 
in pots and kettles, plates and forks being of little use 
to them. They first take a chunk of meat in the left 
hand and, after biting into it, quickly cut off the mouth- 
ful close to the lips with great dexterity. The bread 
and cake were eaten in the same way. It was a sight, 
indeed, to watch them eat. The amount consumed by 
one individual is astonishing. As they would occasion- 
ally stop to wipe the perspiration from their greasy faces, 
the word "Ne-ko-ruk!" (good) would pass from one 
to another with such earnestness that left no doubt as 
to their enjoyment. Four times that room was cleared 
and refilled, until no less than fivescore had eaten of 
the good things prepared for them. At the close a 
giant box of raisins was distributed among the little 
folks, and the shouts of joy that followed caused a 
smile of satisfaction to pass over the face of the good 
missionary and kindly helpmate, who proceeded to 
further amuse them with magic-lantern views, until 
"Gal-la!" (astonishing) and "i-de-gah" (beautiful) re- 
sounded through the room from scores of voices. But 
all things must have an end, and as we recall the many 
incidents of our life In the Polar regions, one of the 
brightest spots in all our travels was that Christmas 
in the Arctic. 

Herschel Island is twenty-eight miles out in the 

66 



AN ARCTIC CHRISTMAS 

Arctic Ocean, and is seven miles long and two miles 
wide, and lies directly north of the boundary line be- 
tween Alaska and the Northwest Territory. 

The sun had by this time vanished entirely and the 
long night had begun, but the moon, now continually 
visible, gave forth a soft, silvery light. The natives 
who came to spend Christmas at the island continued 
to stay and the snow huts increased in number, until 
the place became a good-sized village. It will be re- 
m.embered that on the 27th day of December, 1898, 
there was a total eclipse of the moon visible in the 
Arctic region, which began to appear at 2 P. M., 
and lasted nearly two hours. Like our own Indians, 
the Eskimo is very superstitious, and although they 
appear most friendly disposed, you are never quite sure 
of them, because one never knows at what they may 
take offense, and when they do so they are cruel an.d 
treacherous, and would not hesitate to do you bodily 
harm. 

As the moon began to disappear and darkness came 
on, the natives became much alarmed and began run- 
ning around in great consternation. Some of the older 
ones came to us and asked if the moon was sick, and 
intimated that our coming among them had probably 
displeased the Great Spirit, thus causing this phenome- 
non. We told them that the Great Father, whom the 
missionary had told them about, was angry with them 
for not embracing the true religion. On hearing this 
they all flocked to the missionary and asked him to tell 
the Father to uncover the moon and they would all 

67 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

become good Christians. It was now as dark as the 
'darkest night, the candles were lighted at the mission, 
and all watched with eagerness for the reappearing 
of the moon. As the first ring of light appeared the 
natives came out of their huts, where they had hidden 
themselves, and began to gather Into groups, and as 
fear gave way to mirth, shouts and laughter could be 
heard all over the village. That night there was great 
rejoicing and dancing the hoola-hoola and pounding 
of the tom-toms In some of the large huts where they 
had congregated. However, as some of the older and 
wiser of the chiefs could remember a long time ago 
when a similar occurrence had taken place, and as no 
evil results had followed at that time, they soon forgot 
their promise to the good missionary. 

During my stay at this island I accompanied a party 
of Eskimos on a seal hunt several miles out. Upon 
arriving at open water, several small holes were seen 
in the thin Ice. The dogs were fastened to a block of 
Ice, and then, with harpoon In hand, each native stood 
Intently listening. Soon the breathing of a seal was 
heard several rods to the left of us, puffing like a steam 
jet through one of the small openings In the Ice. A 
native now crept slowly and quietly to the spot, and as 
the animal again blew he sent the harpoon through 
his wriggling victim, while the other natives clipped 
the Ice about the hole until It was large enough to 
drag the seal out and place It upon the sled. The 
whole night was spent in a successful catch, and the 
hunters returned with heavily-laden sledges. They 

68 



AN ARCTIC CHRISTMAS 

were now dressed and distributed, preparatory to the 
great feast. For nearly a month they ate, drank, and 
slept heartily, which means perfect happiness to an 
Eskimo. In fact, this is typical Eskimo life. They 
are satisfied and contented while food lasts, but It is 
not until the last morsel is gone that they begin a 
serious hunt. 

While at Herschel Island we succeeded In procur- 
ing several fine Husky dogs, which, added to those 
we already possessed, made a splendid sled-team 
capable of hauling sufficient outfit for our mountain 
trip. Returning to Marmot Hill, we found everything 
as we had left it, although many new huts had been 
added to our thriving village. 

On January 23d the sun rose after an absence of 
forty-two days, and as the golden rays darted from 
rocky peak to peak the lethargy of the inhabitants of 
our snow village gave place to a boundless enthusiasm. 
During the long dark season they had slept much, and 
a death-like stillness seemed to hover over the whole 
village, but with the returning sun, men, women^ and 
children suddenly awakened from their long drowsi- 
ness, and the scene of silence was quickly transformed 
into one of hilarity. They rolled in the snow and 
played football with each other, laughing, jumping, 
howling, and indulging in all sorts of childish sports. 
Soon the men began sharpening their weapons, pre- 
paratory to another hunt. The women became more 
agreeable In their attitude toward the men. The 
Hoola-hoola dance almost constantly engaged their at- 

69 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

tentlon, and by a charm of manner and a fascinating 
run of conversation peculiar to this time of year, they 
made themselves as lovably attractive as possible. Mar- 
ital relations are aWays easy In Eskimo land, and at 
this period all matrimonial bonds are broken, love- 
making progresses with the advance of daylight, and 
by the time the sun has risen w^ell above the horizon 
the young people are all mated, and some of the older 
ones re-mated. The snow village Is now abandoned, 
new tents erected, and various families with their de- 
pendents seek new delights in other places. Thus new 
villages spring up each year. The family relation 
changes, the food changes, the ambitions and emotions 
are changed — in a word, change Is the law of Arctic 
life. During the balance of the year the women are 
the slaves of the men. The drudgery of the house- 
work, the dressing of the skins and making of cloth- 
ing, the preparation of game, and Indeed most of the 
hard and uninteresting tasks fall to woman's lot, while 
her master, man, follows the chase far afield. 

The difference between the Eskimo and the Indian 
tribes who Inhabit the northwestern latitudes Is very 
strongly marked. As all who have given attention to 
the subject know, a perfect chaos of races Is to be 
found among the Indians of British Columbia and 
Alaska, and their language Is polyglot, the result seem- 
ingly of Innumerable migrations from Malayan and 
Mongolian sources In Asia crossing the straits at dif- 
ferent times. While differing In many ways from each 
other, the Indians have always been turbulent and ex- 

70 



■53 
2 

c 

>r 

Si" 

Co 

i 

I 

Co 




AN AORCTIC CHRISTMAS 

citable. The Eskimo of the Arctic Coast and Alaska 
are also Mongolian In their origin, but probably of a 
more recent Immigration. Dressed In deer skin and 
sealskin clothing, they look quite picturesque, but their 
"labrlts" give the males a grotesque appearance. These 
are wedges of Ivory which they Insert Into their lips 
In childhood, a process as painful as It Is degrading. 
The Eskimo resembles the Chinese In many ways. 
One notes the bloated, flat face, black hair, small hands 
and feet, a certain llstlessness In traveling, together 
with other traits and mannerisms which are charac- 
teristic of the Chinese. The women are very comely 
when free from grease and dirt, very submissive to 
their men, very tender to their children after they 
arrive at a certain age, and Indefatigable in the making 
of gew-gaws with which they endeavor to please the 
men and children. The Eskimo own no manner of 
government or subordination. The father or head of 
the family obeys no superior, he gives advice or opinions 
only; consequently It Is rarely that a great chief Is 
to be found among them, although they Invariably select 
a leader when on their hunting or trading expeditions, 
yielding him Implicit and voluntary obedience. They 
live largely on the products of the sea, but the great 
herd of caribou Inhabiting the coast mountains In 
large numbers afford one of the principal articles of 
food. There Is seldom a scarcity of food, for wild 
fowl, ptarmigan grouse, and marmot are plentiful; 
there are also several kinds of bear and occasionally, 
but not often, musk ox. Although some Eskimo cus- 

71 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

toms seem brutal to us, nevertheless in their relations 
to each other and to the rest of mankind they are fre- 
quently most humane. They have a deep sense of 
honor, a wholesome regard for the rights of their fel- 
lows, cheating and lying being very rare. Morally, 
even when measured by our own standard, they are 
superior to many of the white invaders of their land. 
In fact, it is common practice for captains and mates 
of whaling vessels (spending from one to three years 
in the Arctic) to take to themselves wives bought from 
the coast tribes, usually girls from fifteen to eighteen 
years of age, who make their home on board ship, 
being left during the whaling season at the winter 
quarters of the crew, where they are supplied with 
every possible luxury. Under ordinary circumstances 
the Eskimo would have large families, but the mothers, 
especially at the time of childbirth, receive no care or 
attention, with the result that only one child out of 
several will live, and with habitual carelessness of this 
people in the matter of infantile life, the race does not 
increase, but on the contrary (aided, no doubt, by the 
ever-debilitating effect of contact with the white man's 
civilization), it is rapidly diminishing in numbers. 
To me one of the most interesting problems of Eskimo 
life is involved in the attempt to study in each man 
the mainspring of his ambition. It must, fndeed, take 
a strong spark to fire the furnace of human effort 
against the unrelenting odds of the Polar elements. 
Diseases of various kinds are very prevalent, and severe 
colds frequently develop Into pneumonia and cut off 

72 



AN ARCTIC CHRISTMAS 

large numbers. The Eskimo, Isolated from all the 
rest of the world by stormy, ice-encumbered waters 
and an overland sea of ice and snow, have usually been 
regarded as dwarfs mentally, physically, and morally, 
and their manner of life generally viewed with dis- 
gust. While this estimation of them is not without 
some foundation. Northern travelers and explorers have 
found that the Eskimo customs and habits of life are 
far superior to those of the white men in the Arctic, 
that they invariably adopt their mode of life. They 
wear Eskimo clothing, use Eskimo tactics in hunting, 
travel with Eskimo sledges and dogs, and even eat 
Eskimo food. During the first few months of summer, 
when the heat of the sun sends glacial streams in tor- 
rents from the icy heights, they live in tents or huts 
covered with skins, but for the long winter months 
they construct a hut with blocks of snow cut from 
the solid banks, or when the solid snow is not con- 
venient, a house is often built of rocks and covered with 
sticks and turf. 

During the month of February our Eskimo guide, 
whose name was Munichuk, and who was one of the 
best trappers along the coast, set out a line of traps 
along the foot of the bluffs lying between the cabin 
and the ocean, and was rewarded by a successful catch 
of fine fur. White Arctic foxes are very numerous 
along the coast, also the valuable blue fox, so much 
sought after. In addition to these, the cross fox, the 
silver gray, and often the black fox can be found, but 
the latter, although considered the most valuable, are 

73 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

seldom taken In traps. The large gray wolf is found 
in great numbers along the timber line and in the coast 
mountains. In my opinion, it is a cross between this 
wolf and the Eskimo dog of Greenland that produces 
the famous Husky dogs which have proven so valuable 
in the Klondike country as a means of transportation. 



74 



VIII 

Caribou 

The Coming of Too-rook— We Purchase To- 
HooLA — Jealousy — Death of Ko-le-na's 
Baby. 

The wild primeval desolation of the "Frozen North- 
land" and vast voiceless solitudes, except where the 
silence is broken by some wild creature, have an in- 
expressible charm. You feel that you stand on a por- 
tion of the earth's surface which has known no change 
for centuries, a land which may remain in its natural 
condition for centuries to come. 

Herds of the lordly species of the reindeer family 
roam over the coast mountains and shorelands of the 
Arctic Sea where the foot of man has never trod. Soon 
after the birth of their young In the spring, the Caribou 
begin migrating north and west. For ages they have 
been following the same tracks, and the stones along 
their runways have been worn smooth by generations 
of hoofs. The caribou Is an expert swimmer, and 
crosses streams and broad lakes on their summer pil- 
grimages. It Is no uncommon sight while navigating 
the broad Mackenzie to see its surface bristling with a 

75 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

dozen pair of antlers where a herd of caribou were 
swimming from shore to shore. In the fall, from 
the end of September, the deer return to their winter 
quarters. When crossing the ice they lift their feet 
like high-stepping horses, often over three or four feet 
of snow at each step. Nothing slackens them, on they 
go, never letting up. In these migrations the whole 
herd amount frequently to one thousand or more, and 
are separated Into smaller herds as chance or fear may 
determine them to unite or separate. In the barren 
lands the chief food of this species is the various lich- 
ens or mosses ; the dry grass found in the swamps dur- 
ing the autumn is also eaten, and below the timber 
line the mosses attached to the trees. The caribou has 
branched, recurved antlers, the summit of which are 
palmated; the antlers of the male being much larger 
than those of the female. These antlers, which are 
usually shed and renewed by both sexes, are remark- 
able for the size of the branch which comes out near 
the base — called the brow antler. Caribou are shot 
or killed with heavy spears having points made of flint 
or bluestone, which the natives throw with great skill. 
Hid behind some boulder or crevice in the rock, they 
await the coming herd and slaughter them without 
mercy. But they never hunt with dogs — the Eskimo 
dog is unfit for this purpose, and would frighten the 
caribou all away. As the ice and snow begin to melt in 
the spring, thousands of caribou may be seen coming to 
the seacoast, where the tableland between the coast 
mountains and the ocean is covered with deep, soft moss. 

76 



CARIBOU 

The females in large droves appear several weeks In 
advance of the males, and as soon as their young ones 
are strong enough to travel the w^hole herd start on 
their annual tramp over the barren mountains. As 
the da5'S began to lengthen, the snow^ village at Marmot 
Hill took on a new aspect. Each day witnessed new 
arrivals, and old ones were constantly leaving for more 
favorable localities. Among those to arrive was an old 
chief named Too-rook, w^Ith his wife and two boys 
and a baby girl. They came from beyond the moun- 
tains within the timber belt, and their rich fur cloth- 
ing and bountiful supply of deer skins told plainly that 
they had wintered where game was abundant. Too- 
rook was the most civilized of any Eskimo we had yet 
seen, and because of the little one they were Invited to 
sleep In our cabin. The children were happy as they 
rolled on the floor or chatted to the baby, and we 
termed them the "Happy Family." They were on 
their way to Herschel Island to trade with the whaling 
ship, and secure provisions for the season. Among the 
pack of dogs that this chief possessed was a splendid 
female Husky and two half-grown pups. The female, 
which was called To-hoo-la, being a powerful beast, 
was added to our team by the flattering offer of a tin 
pail and a small kettle. But the Too-rook family had 
no sooner gone than trouble broke out among our own 
dogs. Our wheel dog "Coffee" (so named because 
of his color) a large Saint Bernard who had always 
ruled the whole pack, found he had a jealous rival In 
our leader, Ah-nl-ghl-ta. Things no longer went right. 

77 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

There was a continual bickering and jangling, and al- 
ways the trouble was between these, our two best 
beasts. Matters grew worse instead of better, and 
we plainly saw it would be a fight to death, and with 
great apprehension we watched this rivalry. Coffee 
was chained up during the day, but the nights were 
freezing cold, and he was allowed his freedom. On 
more than one night the sounds of quarreling and 
strife among the other dogs would turn us out of our 
warm sleeping robes, fearful that the two dogs were at 
it again. At other times a dead silence would occur, 
and we knew the two rivals had sneaked away to meet 
each other for a final finish. Rushing out we would 
find the fight waxing hot, while the whole pack, in 
a wolfish circle, stood ready to finish off which ever 
dog went down first. So we tried putting them at 
work; we hauled logs for firewood, made long trips 
to our traps, and did all manner of work that is done 
with horses in a warm climate. But this v/as all to 
no purpose, they would fight, and we knew that nothing 
short of death of one or the other would put an end 
to the trouble. But the opportunity did not present 
itself until after we had returned to the island on our 
way to the mountains. Here was a pack of eighty 
strong, mostly Huskys, and at night the wolf-like song 
could be heard with its long-drawn wailing and half 
sob, dismal as a funeral dirge, and as the morning light 
chased away the gloom, Ah-ni-ghi-ta had passed out 
of existence. The dark circle had closed in and peace 
was again restored. 

78 



CARIBOU 

When the missionary from Canada first visited 
Herschel Island he found the Eskimo race fast di- 
minishing because of the habitual practice of putting 
to death all the girl babies born among them. The 
life of hardship and toil that falls to the lot of woman- 
kind in Eskimo land, together with the low plane of 
esteem on which she is placed by her husband or chief, 
causes the lowly mother to shrink and feel the disgrace 
of a female being born to them. And often by her own 
hand the spark of life was allowed to go out as soon as 
the sex was discovered. But if the mother-love allowed 
the infant to live, the slightest provocation was enough 
to cause its death at the hand of the father. Shocked 
by this state of affairs, the missionary determined to 
put a stop to this infantile slaughter, especially on the 
island where the missionary was located. So calling 
the natives together he explained the disastrous effect 
upon the race, and ended by telling them of the wicked- 
ness and cruelty of such a practice, and the importance 
of embracing the white man's religion, which allowed 
of no such doings. But as this had no apparent effect 
upon them, the missionary decided that the only thing 
to do was to adopt a law, the violation of which was 
met with punishment. Consequently a whipping post 
was erected, the nature of which was explained to the 
natives. They laughed, but the practice ceased for a 
time, except among the tribes located at some distance 
away. After a while an incident occurred that brought 
the matter to an abrupt issue. A young native re- 
turning from a whaling expedition had, on leaving the 

79 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

ship, secreted a flask of rum beneath his artiga and 
carried It to his Igloo. Here he began drinking, until 
in wild frenzy he caught up his two-year-old girl and, 
swinging her above his head for a moment, madly 
dashed her brains out upon the rocks. The news 
spread rapldl}^ and the missionary determined to pun- 
ish the culprit. After consulting with the captain of 
the ship, four stalwart sailors were sent to bring the 
man to the mission. He was stripped and tied to the 
post and given fifty lashes, the missionary administer- 
ing the first ten strokes. This action on the part of the 
missionary caused great consternation among the tribes, 
who fled from the island in great anger, and serious 
fears were entertained for a time regarding his personal 
safety. But as there were about twenty white men on 
the island at the time, no outbreak occurred, and the 
Incident passed without further trouble. A high re- 
gard for the law of the island was inaugurated among 
the tribes along the coast, who soon saw that it was 
only for their good, and with many kind acts of the 
missionary they were soon persuaded to again take up 
their abode on the island, and now It is a rare occur- 
rence that death among the girl babies Is heard of. 

We now began to make short trips to the foot- 
hills, examining all the rivulets and creek beds for 
signs of gold. Many of these were frozen solid, and 
much labor was required before reaching bed rock. 
While our chart described but one small stream lying 
in the valley beyond the divide, still we were anxious 
to be at work, and it was too early to break up camp 

80 



CARIBOU 

on account of the deep snow and severe weather. A 
few colors were discovered, but the pan failed to reveal 
pay rock. 

Returning one evening to Marmot Hill w^e found 
the whole village in an uproar. Too-rook had re- 
turned from the whaling vessel where they had spent 
two weeks, but such a change; his skins were gone, 
his outfit completely dilapidated, and only a small 
stock of provisions to show for it. The wild, haggard 
look and the unsteady gait plainly told the story of the 
white man's rum effect upon the unsuspecting Eskim.o. 
But the most pitiful object was the baby girl; all 
night it lay and moaned, its little life nearly crushed 
out, caused by the hand of its own father while in 
a drunken frenzy at the island, and fearing punishment 
from the hands of the white men, had fled without 
stopping to secure full value of the skins they had 
left on board ship. On the following morning they 
left us for their village beyond the mountains; Ko- 
le-na clinging to her helpless child was bundled up on 
the sled, Too-rook taking the lead, and the two boys 
following behind. But such a change. A few days 
later, while prospecting near the head waters of the 
Babbage River, we found the body of the little one, 
wrapped in furs and hanging to the branches of a 
clump of alders growing near the gulch. With pick 
and shovel we dug a small grave, and after placing 
the little form therein covered it with rocks, thus pre- 
venting the wolves from ever disturbing the resting 
place of this little innocent child of the Northland. 

6 8l 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

One day as the sun was shining brightly, casting 
a glimmer over ice and snow, an Arctic fox suddenly 
dropped down into the passageway cut through the 
snow leading from the door of the cabin to the foot 
of the bluff, and seeing the cabin door ajar slipped 
inside and hid under one of the bunks. The cook, 
who had just finished the morning housework, quickly 
closed the door and made the visitor a prisoner. All 
hands were called in, a dog chain and collar procured, 
and we proceeded to collar the white beauty. But 
her ladyship had no notion of being taken so easily. 
Around the room she fairly flew, upsetting kettles and 
pans in her endeavor to find an opening, and then with 
a sullen glare in her wicked eyes settled down in a 
dark corner, showing her teeth and awaiting further 
action. The cook, thinking to outwit her, reached 
over and undertook to place a slip noose over her 
head, when suddenly, and without warning, she sprang 
several feet into the air, and catching his nose between 
her sharp teeth split it to the bone. The medicine 
chest was quickly brought Into requisite use, and the 
nose cleansed and bandaged. We then placed a box 
in the corner and the fox was driven into it, but with 
much snarling and biting, we finally succeeded in plac- 
ing the collar about her neck, and chained her to a 
crowbar which we made fast in the corner of the room. 
She refused to eat or drink, but continued to snap and 
bite at everything she could reach until her teeth were 
broken and bleeding, and we decided to send her to the 
missionary at the island, who owned a tame blue fox 

82 



CARIBOU 

which was a male. But ft was to no good purpose, for 
the confinement must have set her crazy; after lacer- 
ating the blue fox in a horrible manner, she went into 
spasms and died. The blue fox did not recover from 
the effect of the bite, and died a few days after. With 
considerable apprehension we watched the nose of the 
cook, but he entirely recovered except for a scar which 
he carries to this day— a remembrance of the days 
when he lassoed foxes in the Northland. 



83 



IX 

Return to Herschel Island 

Mission Work — The Captain's Request — Jack^s 
Disappointment — Wolves — A Halt in the 
Night. 

The contrast between summer and winter is nowhere 
more striking than in the Arctic Coast. In summer 
the midnights are without darkness, in which the sun 
stands visible in the heavens like a victorious king, 
throned on a dias of purple and gold. Such Is the Im- 
pressive sight of the majestic orb holding Imperial revel 
at midnight amid scenes of unearthly radiance; but 
how different the winter with its howling tempest and 
Its two months of weird gloom in which the orb of 
day Is never seen, in which the absolute blackness of 
perpetual night is relieved only by the shimmering 
whiteness of the snow and the picturesque brightness 
of the Northern lights. 

The weather was now beginning to moderate, and 
as April drew near we decided to convey all our be- 
longings to the Island, where we would leave them in 
charge of the missionary and proceed on our journey to 
the coveted gold fields. Arriving at the Island we 

84 



RETURN TO HERSCHEL ISLAND 

found the missionary hard at work teaching and 
preaching to a school of about fifty dusky pupils, al- 
though some of them were fathers and mothers. The 
mission work at Herschel Island and Point Barrow 
progress but slowly. Having no written language of 
their own, the Eskimo has to be taught the English 
language before the principles of the Christian re- 
ligion can be thoroughly understood. Every Sunday 
morning religious services were held at the mission, 
accompanied with singing, in which all heartily joined, 
although hardly a word could be understood by us. 
There was one song, however, that the children loved 
to sing more than any other — which the good mission- 
ary had taught them to sing in their own jargon. It 
was the old familiar song of our childhood days: 

Jesus loves me this I know, 
For the Bible tells me so, 
Little ones to Him belong, 
We are weak but he is strong. 
Yes, Jesus loves me, etc., etc. 

Eskimo jargon: 

Je-rok cam-i-ug gi nee, 
Kill-e uh ac poom, ko-zi-nee, 
Gee-u-ac nic-a kil-u-gok, 
Je-rok bombic kil-u ac. 
Cam-i-ug nee etc., etc. 

This was always sung with great enthusiasm, 
much to the enjoyment of all present. 

The weather continued mild, and being anxious 

8s 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

to get our goods safely housed before starting up 
stream, we secured the services of several dog teams, 
and returning to the cabin at Marmot Hill trans- 
ported all of our belongings to the island. It was at 
this time that the leader of our dog team, Ah-ni-ghi-to, 
met his untimely death. 

Captain Hagerty of the steam whaling vessel 
Mary D. Hume came to us one day, and after giving 
us an invitation to dine at the ship that evening said 
that he had a request to make before we left the is- 
land. That night, after partaking of a bountiful repast, 
the captain told us the following story: 

When the gold fever broke out the previous year, 
the sailors who manned the Hume became uneasy 
and restless. The many flattering reports from the 
gold fields, compared with the small lay offered them 
by the whaling company, caused a feeling of dissatisfac- 
tion among the forecastle hands in particular, as they 
were to receive but a two-hundredth part (or lay) of 
the whalebone secured, and the catch thus far had not 
been unusually flattering. Matters kept growing 
worse, until the captain plainly saw that something 
must be done or mutiny would soon break out among 
the men. So calling them all on deck one morning he 
explained to them the folly of leaving the ship, that 
they had no mining tools or proper outfit, and if they 
had, the reports were not reliable, and would no doubt 
end in failure to themselves and loss to the ship. Be- 
sides they had signed for three years, and they would 
be treated as deserters, and if caught they would be 
86 



= §■ 



a :3 



^ ^ 




RETURN TO HERSCHEL ISLAND 

put in irons and taken to San Francisco, where pun- 
ishment for desertion would surely follow. For a few 
days the excitement quieted down, and the captain 
flattered himself that the trouble had passed. But a 
few weeks later, on returning from a hunting trip up 
the river, he was met by the first mate, who informed 
him that four of the sailors had stolen provisions and 
a few tools from the ship unobserved, and were just on 
the point of leaving the island when the alarm was 
given. The remaining officers, after procuring several 
of the ship's rifles, started in pursuit. Several miles 
up the river they came up to the fugitives, who 
answered their demand to halt by a fusilade of bul- 
lets. The engineer was mortally wounded, and died 
before reaching the ship. The other officers imme- 
diately opened fire, killing two of the deserters on the 
spot. The other two succeeded in getting away by 
dropping all but their rifles and running for their 
lives. The captain immediately ordered his men to go 
with dogs and sled and bring the three bodies to the 
ship, where, after suitable services had been solemnized 
by the missionary, they were buried on the island near 
the mission. This sorrowful incident had restored 
peace and quiet to the rest of the crew, but the time 
was now approaching when the ship must leave on 
her trip to the whaling grounds, and from there to 
San Francisco, which would be impossible unless the 
vacancy causeH by the loss of the five men could be 
filled before leaving the winter quarters. The cap- 
tain tHen requested that our party return to the island 

87 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

in July, when the Ice would break, and accompany him 
on the whaling expedition to the eastward, and offered 
us free transportation to San Francisco, adding that 
in case we should fail to strike it rich we would be 
allowed the lay due the deserters. As this offer would 
secure our safe arrival back to civilization, with what- 
ever we might have to transfer, we accepted his gen- 
erous offer and returned to the mission. 

Many of the natives were leaving the Island now 
to engage in hunting the caribou that were gradually 
moving toward the coast from the timber belt beyond 
the watershed. Word had already been received that 
the game was in the coast mountains, and many were 
being killed by the men camping further up the river. 
Several days were spent in trading with the remaining 
natives. In which we disposed of all our dogs but four 
of the best, and added greatly to our stock of furs. 
Then placing all in one of the whaling company's 
outhouses, that the captain kindly offered us, we pre- 
pared our outfit ready to start on the following day. 
As the sun began to cast Its rays over the mountain 
peaks on this bright but crisp April morning, our little 
party of four men, with four powerful dogs hitched to 
an Eskimo sledge, could be seen many miles up the Her- 
schel River. We were well equipped with mining 
tools of all descriptions, rifles and ammunition, and pro- 
visions sufficient for three months. Munichchuk, our 
guide, with his wife and child, accompanied us with 
two Husky dogs that drew the food for the teams. 
This consisted of whaleblubber cut in small chunks, 

88 



RETURN TO HERSCHEL ISLAND 

which is the principal food for dogs in the North- 
land. Although the sun shone warm during the mid- 
dle of the day, the nights were freezing cold, and our 
heavy fur bedding served us well as we lay in our 
small canvas tent at night. The snow lay heavy over 
the whole land, and the freezing nights produced such 
a crust that to travel over land was out of the ques- 
tion. The ice, however, was quite smooth, and by 
keeping to the river bed we made fair progress except 
for the winding of the stream. The third day out 
we met a single native returning from the island with 
a sledload of caribou saddles. The other parties now 
left us, urged on by the flattering reports of their fel- 
lows, and for several days we traveled slowly up the 
trail they had left. Many deer signs were now seen 
on every side, and twice we had the good fortune to 
get a chance shot that replenished our larder with 
venison steak for several days. 

Several times, while urging our way up the ice- 
bound stream, a herd of mountain sheep would present 
themselves high up the side of the mountain, and after 
watching us for a moment from some narrow jutting 
would quickly vanish behind some jagged rocks, only 
to return to view many yards further up the mountain. 
Our guns were immediately brought into requisite use, 
but the distance was too great and the little puffs of 
dust far below witnessed to our vain attempt to reach 
the wary game. 

We had now crossed the boundary line and were 
in Northern Alaska. On arriving at the foot of the 

89 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

mountains we observed a deep valley leading up be- 
tween the mountains, through which another stream 
lay hidden by the deep snow. Here we found many 
of the natives camping, and carcasses of caribou hang- 
ing from poles and low branches of trees told plainly 
that we had reached the hunting ground. Conse- 
quently we decided to camp for a few days ; so pitching 
our tent and depositing all our belongings inside we 
settled down for a few days' hunt. 

An abundance of timber was found in this valley 
and also for some distance up the side of the mountain. 
Game abounded on every side. Caribou could be seen 
any day crossing the valley and moving northward, 
while signs of bear and wolves were found on every 
hand. The gulches and timber belts were teeming 
with grouse, while marmot and the much-prized 
ermine were numerous along the creek banks. This 
was indeed "The Hunter's Paradise." 

Early the next morning, having observed a herd of 
caribou descending the rocky side of the mountain, 
the engineer and Jack decided to try their hand at se- 
curing fresh steak for dinner. Taking a rifle and an 
ax they started up the mountain side toward the mov- 
ing herd, and finally secreted themselves behind some 
rocks and awaited their oncoming. As the leaders drew 
near the engineer raised his gun and fired, and one 
deer fell in its tracks, but as he attempted to throw 
in a second cartridge the rifle crammed and they were 
obliged to be content with a single shot. As they ap- 
proached the fallen caribou it sprang to Its feet, and 

90 



RETURN TO HERSCHEL ISLAND 

plunging down the mountain side for a few yards 
fell again. But as the camp was located at the foot 
of the mountain, they continued to urge their game 
along, expecting to finally dispatch it with the ax. 
After falling several times the wounded animal began 
to recover its strength and started off at a rapid pace 
and was soon out of sight in the thick timber. The 
tracks soon became so intermingled with those of the 
passing herd that further progress was impossible, and 
the men returned to the camp much chagrined at the 
unnecessary loss. 

We remained for several days in this locality, hunt- 
ing and trapping, the result of which enabled us to add 
several fine specimens of Arctic fox skins to our stock, 
which w^e sent to the Island by the returning natives. 
As has always been the case where large game abound, 
wolves are sure to be found prowling about, so this 
was not an exception. With the passing of the cari- 
bou came the timber wolves, following on the out- 
skirts of the great herd, living off from the weak and 
wounded and making the nights hideous with their 
united bowlings.- These wolves are habitual thieves, 
while many deer heads and other refuse lay scattered 
about, still they would spend hours In trying to pull 
down a deer saddle hanging to the branch of a tree, 
or digging them out of the snow where the natives 
had burled them for safekeeping. Our dogs were in 
constant danger and kept Inside of the tent every night. 
However, some of the Eskimos being less thoughtful 
regarding the welfare of the faithful animals, awoke 

91 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

to find them dead or mortally wounded by the sharp 
fangs of the murderous wolves. 

It was now the first day of May, and as the 
weather continued fine we broke up camp, and direct- 
ing our course to the eastward followed up the stream 
that wound through the valley between the moun- 
tains, stopping now and then to examine the rockbed, 
or to pan out a few shovels of dirt from the gulches 
leading up from the base of the mountains. The 
sun continued warm through the day, causing the snow 
to soften, thereby impeding our progress, so we decided 
to camp and only travel during the early part of the 
day, while the snow remained frozen. By starting at 
two o'clock in the morning we found the traveling 
much improved, and the crisp morning air urged us 
forward at a much more rapid pace. 

Arriving early one morning at a turn in the valley, 
we beheld the whole side of the mountain covered with 
dark objects that appeared to be moving down toward 
the valley in which we were traveling. Munichchuk, 
who was some distance in advance of the train, came 
running back much excited, and informed us that it 
was an immense herd of caribou crossing the mountains 
on their way to the coast, and explained to us the 
danger of being trampled to death if caught in their 
path. The dogs also became unmanageable, and it 
was only by severe punishment that we were able to 
hold them in place. But we knew it 'would mean 
certain death to allow the dogs to rush out toward 
this innumerable herd. Drawing our sledges close up 

92 



RETURN TO HERSCHEL ISLAND 

under the rocky ledge we chained the dogs to the load. 
Then taking our rifles we approached the bend, and 
climbing to the top of the low bluff watched the mov- 
ing mass. On they came, never swerving to the right 
or left — slowly but w^ith steady tread — thousands of 
living, moving animals. Sometimes crowding each 
other or spreading out to avoid a jutting rock, but 
fearing nothing in their innumerable strength. Several 
times a straggler v/ould venture within a few feet of 
where we were standing, when they would turn, stamp 
their feet, and then dash on to join the onward march. 
For more than an hour we halted and watched the 
countless number pass. It was nearly daylight as we 
drew out our sleds again into the trail and continued 
our journey up the valley. The snow still lay heavy 
in the lov/lands, but on some of the southern slopes 
bare spots of rock could be seen, and In the creekbeds 
water was beginning to settle, much to the discom- 
fiture of all of us. 

On arrival at a place where a deep gulch led up 
toward the south we entered the rocky canyon, and 
after several hours of hard pulling and tugging reached 
the top of the first range of mountains, and pitching 
our tent on Its level summit indulged in a much-needed 
rest. This plateau on which we had halted was bare 
of earth, being solid rock on which no form of vegeta- 
tion existed. Not a stick of wood could be found with 
which to make a fire, so we had to content ourselves 
with the remains of our last meal to appease our raven- 
ous appetites. Our object in climbing to this high 

93 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

elevation was not merely to shorten the distance, but 
to enable us to locate our position and take observa- 
tions of the surrounding country. As we surveyed 
the vast expanse over which we had traveled, we could 
see the great ocean, a vast waste of Interminable 
whiteness away to the north, while to the southward, 
rearing Its gigantic peak to the very clouds, could be 
seen the great spur of the Old Crow Mountains, 
toward which our course was directed. It was at the 
foot of this spur that the trail described In our chart 
was to begin, and if the description was true, then at 
the end of the trail we should find that for which we 
had forfeited all the blessings of civilization, had 
braved the dangers by both land and sea, had suffered 
hardships and privations almost unendurable. As we 
went back In our minds over the perils of the past 
eight months, a sudden fear seemed to take possession 
of us, and again we asked ourselves the question, 
"Would we succeed?" Pressing onward we followed 
the range of mountains, until the abrupt ending of the 
level summit compelled us to descend. Several days 
of hard traveling now lay before us before we could 
reach a point where we might begin definite work. 

Again In the valley we kept our course by the com- 
pass, as near as possible, toward the mountain spur. 
The snow was deep and heavy, but the wood was 
plenty In the gulches, and we had an abundance of 
provisions, which was replenished each day by a fresh 
supply of grouse, which frequented the valley In great 
numbers. 

94 



RETURN TO HERSCHEL ISLAND 

Several times In our journeyings we would come 
across an Indian settlement (mostly Loucheaux's) who 
were much interested in our story and gave us much 
useful information concerning the route to the Old 
Crow, but they discredited the fact that any miner 
had been in the mountains and found gold in any 
quantity, and especially ridiculed the idea of a cabin 
being built in the timber a year ago without their 
knowledge. Such a thing they considered impossible. 
Many miners have been up in the mountains to pros- 
pect, but all had returned, and if we expected to find 
gold we should make our way toward Dawson. This 
was the advice that awaited us wherever we met 
with the inhabitants of this mountain country. And 
while we felt that they were sincere — and many of 
them having mingled w^ith the whites could explain 
to us in very good English, and appeared much inter- 
ested in our welfare — still we felt that we had sacri- 
ficed too much not to give the matter a thorough inves- 
tigation. However, at this point two of the party be- 
came much discouraged, and on hearing the flattering 
reports of the rich gold finds in the Klondike districts, 
urged us to give up our plans and go with the crowd. 
But we were firm, and told them that the only way to 
succeed was to stay together, and reminded them of 
the fact that the chart was given by the hand of a dying 
man, but if they still desired to go we should continue 
to search at least until we proved the chart to be 
wrong. After considerable discussion unity again was 
restored, and we proceeded without further trouble. 

95 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

On the 1 8th of May we reached the wide valley with 
plenty of timber on every side, and decided to make 
this a permanent camping place, being located about 
three days' journey north from the Old Crow Moun- 
tains, and do our exploring single-handed, returning 
to the camp whenever necessity required. 



96 



ARCTIC 



^er,chel ^^ N 




DAVIDSON MTS 



^^m 



The trail as described by the Wegmer Chart. 



X 

The Trail 

We Reach the Old Crow — A Hard Climb — 
Death of Tohoola — Discouragement. 

Having established our camp we proceeded to arrange 
for a trip to the Old Crow, there to take up the trail 
as described by our chart. 

The water had now settled in the valley until the 
little stream had widened and deepened, and was now 
rushing and foaming over the icebed from one bank 
to the other. Leaving Munichchuk to care for the 
camp and hunt, we each prepared a pack composed of 
a pair of blankets and provisions sufficient for several 
days, and then climbing up the rocky range directed 
our course toward the Old Crow Mountains. Our 
progress was slow because of the deep, soft snow in the 
valleys, and the loose shellrock on the mountain side, 
but on the evening of the second day we reached the 
Porcupine River which flows along the foot of the 
Old Crow Mountains, and discovered at once the junc- 
tion where the trail was to begin. Climbing to the 
top of a high bluff we scanned the surrounding coun- 
try with our glass. Down stream to the westward 

7 97 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

could be seen the Old Rampart House, past which the 
river was now rushing, while great cakes of ice could 
be seen grinding and crowding each other as the vo- 
luminous quantities of surface water drove them along. 
As our eyes followed the course of the stream we could 
see the bend beyond the Rampart House, where the 
stream continued its mad rush toward Circle City to 
join the waters of the Klondike. At the foot of the 
Old Crow a small stream entered the river from the 
northeast, and it was at this junction that the trail 
was to begin. Selecting a dry, sheltered nook near this 
little stream, surrounded with small scrub pines and 
spruce, we pitched our tent, and after partaking of a 
light supper from our packs rolled up in our warm 
blankets and were soon fast asleep. We will here give 
our readers a little peep into the secret chart that we 
had so jealously guarded, and which had led us to 
leave our loved ones and all that was dear to us, and 
plunge into this wild, uncivilized Northland, three 
thousand miles from civilization, and here, after a year 
spent in traversing this almost impenetrable country, 
had just reached the place where the chart told us 
was the beginning of the end. Here at the junction 
of the Old Crow and the Porcupine Rivers, at the 
foot of the Old Crow Mountains, we take up the trail. 
(See map, page 96.) At four o'clock the next morn- 
ing we were astir, and after consulting our chart and 
carefully taking observations, packed up our outfit and 
started up the trail. For twelve hours we picked our 
way along the foot of the mountain range, where the 

98 



THE TRAIL 

timber was thick and heavy, and traveh'ng slow and 
tiresome, and at five o'clock camped near the end of 
the range. 

After satisfying our appetites a huge fire was built 
outside the tent, and with blankets thrown over our 
shoulders sat down and conversed over the prospect 
before us. The sun shone until nearly midnight, and 
it was not until it had sunk below the horizon that we 
turned In for the night. The woods were ringing with 
the songs of many birds, and the sun high up, as we 
first opened our eyes the next morning, our limbs stiff 
from the long tramp and the heavy packs, but we soon 
threw off the lethargy and again started on our way. 
The trail now led through a long, wide valley, and the 
traveling was much improved. Toward night we 
reached a stream of water which was almost over- 
flowing its banks -and was impossible to ford. To the 
east lay a deep canyon where a heavy growth of under- 
brush formed a regular jungle. We knew that thus 
far w^e had followed the direction of our instructor, 
for the chart had described this place as a deep jungle. 
Finding ourselves nearly opposite the camp where we 
had left Munichchuk in charge we set up our guidon, 
and turning to the westward continued along the river 
up the valley, and an hour from the time we left the 
trail came in sight of the big tent. Munichchuk was 
away with the dogs to bring in the carcass of a deer 
which he had just killed, and the several dozen grouse 
that we observed hanging from the branches of trees 
told plainly that he had not been idle. Sooky, the 

99 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

wife of the guide, was busy making boots for our party, 
and had already finished several pairs. Silok, the 
daughter, a girl of ten or twelve years, was also en- 
gaged in stripping tendons to be used in sewing, which 
is the only kind of thread used by the natives. These 
boots are made of seal skin, with bottoms from the 
skin of the grampus or white whale. These soles, 
which the women shape by chewing and pressing, are 
turned up all around the edge and sewed with tendons 
taken from the caribou and mountain sheep. These 
boots are waterproof and very comfortable to wear. 
Many of the Eskimo women are experts at bootmaking, 
and it is no uncommon thing to see their teeth worn 
nearly to the gums from the constant practice of chew- 
ing the soles into shape. 

It was now June. The snow had disappeared ex- 
cept in the valleys ; the streams were swollen and every 
creekbed had become a rushing river. Unable to cross 
the river, we decided to build a raft and float down 
the stream until we reached the trail. Consequently 
we began the same day to cut down dry trees, and by 
night had lashed together a very seaworthy craft. 
Early the next day found us floating down stream with 
a fresh supply of provisions, and at ten o'clock had 
reached the trail without accident. Securing our 
guidon and blankets, we poled our raft across the 
stream and made it fast to a small tree that stood near 
the water's edge. We now divided our outfit into four 
packages, and each shouldering his load continued 
our tramp northward. Our course now lay to the 
100 



THE TRAIL 

north, northeast, and for some distance the footing 
was good and we made fine progress. But as the after- 
noon wore away the trail led up the side of the moun- 
tain, and finally came to a perpendicular wall of rock 
which we were unable to surmount. Dropping our 
heavy loads, we decided to camp for the night and 
wait until the next day before trying to again pick up 
the trail which had come to such an abrupt ending. 
Leaving two of our party to prepare breakfast, the 
next morning found Jack and myself out early for 
some signs to direct our future course. It was decided 
that we each start out in opposite directions and fol- 
low along the foot of the bluffs until the trail was 
found. I had proceeded a short distance to the west- 
ward when a shout from Jack brought me quickly 
back ; he stood near the foot of the bluff pointing to a 
small scrub pine growing out from between the crevices 
of rocks about one hundred feet up the mountain. A 
blaze could plainly be seen reaching from the ground 
to the lower limbs of this tree. But how to reach 
that point with our loads was a question which must 
be answered later. A short distance to the eastward 
the bluffs seemed to be more accessible, and toward 
this we made our way. Rounding a clump of bushes 
and fallen timber, we came upon an old trail lead- 
ing us directly toward the blazed pine. On arriv- 
ing at this point we found that the trail led still fur- 
ther up the mountain, but the footing appeared more 
smooth and quite easy to pass over. Returning to 
camp we found the other two men anxiously waiting. 
lOI 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

The situation was explained, and after doing justice to 
a well-earned breakfast of sandwiches and coffee, we 
broke camp and again proceeded on our journey. Our 
course now lay directly over the summit of the moun- 
tain and then turned eastward and continued around 
the mountain-side, and for two days we followed this 
course, but on the evening of the second day again 
entered a wide valley where all signs of the trail 
ceased. 

Several small streams trickled down from the 
mountain-side, forming a small creek which wound its 
way eastward through the valley. A few small spruce 
trees grew along the foot of the bluffs, but no 
signs of the presence of white men could be found, 
much less of a mining camp. The Wegmer mines 
must be in this locality was the opinion of all ; the chart 
told of shallow streams, where gold could be seen em- 
bedded in the rocky creekbed. It also told of a cabin 
built within a clump of small pine trees, and a gold 
mine where a shaft had been sunk and nuggets large 
and small easy to obtain. Vain delusion ! In a time of 
excitement like the gold craze of 1898-9, a fairy tale 
immediately became a certainty In the mind of adven- 
turous men, and heedless of all good advice of friends 
or loved ones they plunge into the abyss, which can 
only end in failure and disappointment. 

We crossed to the opposite foot hills, but all signs 
of the trail had ceased, and only a few streams could 
be seen and no indication of gold. The Arctic Ocean 
could again be seen from this place, for we had now 

102 



THE TRAIL 

reached the Davidson Mountains. Several days were 
spent in prospecting, but not a color could we discover 
in any of the creekbeds. Again we examined our 
chart, going over each portion with strict attention. 
Surely we had followed its directions in every particu- 
lar, but here all had ended. The chart had described 
the valley as containing a thick growth of timber, a 
small cabin, and gold nuggets plainly observed in the 
creekbed. While to the contrary, only a few small 
scrubby trees existed, no sign of a cabin, and not a 
color to reward our most diligent search. The course 
of the streams flowed eastward, and we conjectured 
that they must connect with the Babbage River 
further down. Our party now separated, two going 
each way in hopes of finding some trace of the Weg- 
mer mines. Much time was even spent in sinking a 
shaft near the foot of a high bluff that appeared to be 
a favorable sight for prospecting, but all to no pur- 
pose. For weeks we traversed those mountains from 
Herschel River on the west, to the Babbage River in 
the east, but not an ounce of gold or a trace of any 
mining camp could we discover. Weary and heart- 
sore we returned to the valley and prepared to retrace 
our steps. We had been deceived. Our chart, that we 
had guarded with jealous care by day and dreamed 
of by night, was simply a * 'will-o'-the-wisp" delusion 
which we had followed, and at such a sacrifice. Again 
we consulted together, as we had done many times be- 
fore, but this time the decision must be final. Why a 
man should guard his secret unto death, and give out 

103 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

a false trail at such a time for honest men to follow, 
was hard to understand, but something seemed to tell 
me that the time would come when we would know. 
While thus troubled and perplexed, I turned to the 
little Bible that I always carried. How often had I 
received comfort from that little book when sad and 
lonely, or hardships and trials seemed more than I 
could bear, and now as I confronted the greatest disap- 
pointment of my life, I felt that no earthly help was 
sufficient to bear me up, and turning to Its pages I 
read : *'It Is good for me that I have been afflicted, that 
I might learn Thy statutes. The law of Thy mouth 
is better unto me than thousands of gold and silver. 
It is better to trust in the Lord than to put confidence 
in man. I will go before thee and make the rugged 
places plain, and I will give thee the treasures of dark- 
ness, and hidden treasures of secret places, that thou 
mayest know that I am the Lord which call thee by 
name. Even the Lord of Israel." 

Our provisions were now nearly gone, and turning 
our faces southward, we started on our back trail. 
We were tired, sore, and discouraged, but without the 
heavy luggage we made quick time, and on Saturday 
morning, June 25th, arrived at the river, where we 
found our raft high and dry, but still fastened to the 
tree which was now several yards from the water's 
edge. The rushing river a few days before was now a 
small stream, rippling along the center of an otherwise 
dry creekbed. As we forded this small brooklet, we 
could but compare our feelings with the high hopes that 
104 



THE TRAIL 

were throbbing in our breasts as we navigated this same 
stream only a few short weeks before. 

The snow had at this time disappeared, and the 
trees put forth a shade of green from the opening buds, 
while here and there a snow-white flower could be 
seen peeping out from their mossy beds. Arctic grouse 
were abundant in the valleys, and signs of moose and 
caribou were all about us. We would camp for a 
while at least and enjoy the surroundings before re- 
turning to Herschel Island, was the opinion expressed 
by all as we sauntered back up the valley toward the 
camp where we had left the native guide and his 
family. 

Arriving at camp, we found Munichchuk much 
excited over the depredations of the previous night. 
A bear had entered the camp and carried off the sad- 
dles of a deer and killed one of the dogs. Munich- 
chuk had been away at the time to hunt deer, which 
he found much easier to approach at night, although 
nearly as light as day. The woman and girl having 
no weapon of defense, deserted the tent, and running 
up to the top of the high bluff, left Bruin to his own 
sport. The tent had been pulled down and much 
mischief done. There are several species of bear that 
inhabit the Northern country, but this one kind was 
feared more by the natives than all others. It was 
known as the white-nosed bear. They are not large 
but are very ferocious, with great tenacity of life, often 
carrying away enough lead to kill several ordinary 
bears, and will fight a man until shot through the 

105 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

brain. We therefore decided to remain in camp a few 
days and watch for his return. Nothing unusual oc- 
curred during that night, but early the next morning 
Munichchuk came running in and informed us that 
he had discovered two bears up on the side of the 
mountain slowly coming toward the camp. Securely 
fastening the tent, we sent the wife and daughter away 
in an opposite direction, and taking our repeating rifles, 
we quickly followed Munichchuk. We soon discovered 
the two bears moving slowly down a recent snowslide, 
and secreting ourselves behind a large boulder, awaited 
their approach. We now had the pleasure of witness- 
ing the natural cunning of our native guide. Telling 
us to lay quiet, he now crept along to where a large 
boulder had been displaced, leaving a deep hole, and 
quickly slipping into It, disappeared from sight. Soon 
one of the bears came down within gunshot, and as he 
turned broadside Munichchuk's rifle rang out, and the 
bear went rolling down the hill, but soon regained his 
feet and, rearing Into the air, glared savagely about 
endeavoring to locate his enemy. But the native knew 
his ground, and immediately after firing he dropped 
down into his hiding place. The bear now began gath- 
ering moss and crowding It into the wound made by 
the 44 Marlin. Immediately another shot was heard, 
and again the bear raged about In quest of the offender 
that was firing death into his very vitals. But the last 
shot was dangerously near the heart, and Bruin began to 
feel sick, and soon lay down, when with more accuracy 
a ball was sent crashing through his brain. The other 

1 06 



THE TRAIL 

bear, either frightened by the noise, or seeing the battle 
going on against his companion, must have run away, 
for we saw no more of him, and was not disturbed by 
them again. The bear the guide had killed was indeed 
a white-nosed one, and weighed about two hundred 
pounds. The skin was in fine condition, and was added 
to our collection. Our dogs, having been idle for sev- 
eral weeks, were now growing fat and suffered much 
from the heat during the day. Plenty of fresh meat was 
at hand, and for a week we did nothing but rest, giving 
up entirely to our feelings of disappointment and dis- 
couragement. But as time passed hope began to re- 
vive, and we began to arrange for our return to the 
whaling vessel, that we might be in time to comply 
with the captain's request. Much work was to be done 
preparatory to making the return trip. Sooky and the 
girl were set to making saddles for the dogs, to aid 
in packing our outfit overland to the island. The 
ship would leave for the whaling grounds about 
the loth of July, and it was now late in June, and 
more than one hundred miles lay between us and the 
ocean. 

Leaving our sleds and mining equipments to the 
care of mother earth, we placed our blankets and ammu- 
nition in the dog saddles, and each man, woman, and 
child, with a pack of provisions sufficient for them- 
selves, started on the long tramp to the ocean. As we 
reached the valley where the trail had ended, and look- 
ing about us, a feeling of indignation and resentment 
came over us, and some hard expressions escaped the 
107 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

lips of more tlian one of the party. But as the man 
who was responsible for our sufferings was beyond 
human reach, we stifled our feelings of revenge and 
pressed onward. We each resolved that should we 
reach home in safety we would spare no pains or money 
in finding out the secret that had so cruelly escaped 
us. And something seemed to say, "Sometime you shall 
know." The weather was now exceedingly warm, 
and our progress slow and tiresome. The dogs suf- 
fered much from the excessive heat. The sun shone 
both night and day, and would not sink below the 
horizon again until August. The nights were much 
cooler than the days, and we decided to sleep during the 
day and travel more at night. The third day out, 
while we were asleep, a great commotion among the 
dogs suddenly awakened us, and on running out dis- 
covered that our female dog, "Tohoola," had become 
raving mad and was biting at everything she came 
near. The other dogs seemed to know the danger and 
were running In every direction to keep out of her way, 
yelping and growling whenever she came near them. 
Securing a rope we soon succeeded in throwing it 
over her head, and after placing a collar about her 
neck, chained her to a large clump of alders that grew 
near the tent. She continued to bite, and soon had the 
alders gnawed In two and was loose again. Fearing 
for the safety of the other dogs, we were obliged to 
put an end to her life. We had by this time become 
much attached to our dogs, and the death of Tohoola 
was much regretted by the whole party, for she was one 

io8 



THE TRAIL 

of the best in the team. We now had but three dogs 
left, including the one owned by Munichchuk, and he 
was already packing fifty pounds weight. Our spaniel 
dog, Sport, being too small to carry much of a load, 
was given in the charge of the girl, Silook. Old 
"Coffee," the largest dog of the pack, had now twenty- 
five pounds of cartridges added to his load. The rest 
of the luggage that poor Tohoola had so bravely car- 
ried for three days was divided among the men of the 
party, and we again proceeded on our way. Although 
the deep moss in the valley and the rough rocky ranges 
made the traveling very difficult, we covered a distance 
of fifteen miles daily. 

We had now reached the head waters of the Bab- 
bage River, and following near the riverbed, found the 
traveling much improved. Several flocks of wild ducks 
came heading up the stream, and our ever-ready rifles 
served us well in supplying our larder with fresh fowl. 
Other game became scarce after leaving the mountains, 
and only a few marmots and ptarmigan came within 
reach of our fire. 

We finally reached Canoe River, which flows east- 
ward and empties into the Baggage River about twenty 
miles south of the coast. This river is swift, but being 
rather shallow in places, we decided to ford it, if pos- 
sible, at this place; otherwise we might be obliged to 
travel some distance up stream before finding shallow 
water. The guide immediately removed the saddle 
from his dog, and stripping off his outer garments 
started to cross the stream, holding the saddle and con- 

109 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

tents on his shoulders. His dog followed and swam 
across in safety. The rest of the party sat down on 
the shore to watch the procedure. While thus en- 
gaged old Coffee had walked down to the water's 
edge unobserved, still carrying his pack, and before 
we realized his danger plunged into the water, with 
the intention no doubt of following the other dog. 
But his great load bore him down, and the next mo- 
ment he sank out of sight. We all sprang to our feet 
and rushed into the water, but the swift current must 
have carried him down very quickly, for although we 
watched faithfully along the river bank for several 
hours, thinking he might be washed ashore, we were 
obliged to give it up and leave him to a watery grave. 
Noble old Coffee, faithful to the last, ready to brave 
any danger to serve his masters. Tears filled our 
eyes as we proceeded on our journey without our 
faithful friend. 

We had anticipated meeting with natives who came 
up the river every spring to fish for salmon, and thereby 
secure a boat to carry us down to the cabin where 
we had left our scow safely moored. But as no such 
opportunity presented itself, we were obliged to travel 
the whole distance. 

Reaching Marmot Hill about midnight, we set to 
work constructing a raft from the driftwood strewn 
along the bank. Our cabin being on the opposite side 
of the river, we placed all of our luggage upon the 
raft and two of the men poled it across. They then 
returned in safety and ferried the whole party over 
IIO 



THE TRAIL 

to where our cabin was located. We found the place 
deserted, and no signs of any one having occupied the 
premises since winter. The roof of the cabin had 
fallen in, the door hung on one hinge, the chinking 
had fallen out from between the logs, and the whole 
surroundings appeared forsaken and desolate, strangely 
contrasting with the thriving Eskimo village we left 
only four months before. The cabin was damp and 
unfit to be occupied, so building a fire outside, we 
pitched our small tent, cooked our remaining pro- 
visions, and after partaking of a light lunch, laid down 
for a good rest, of which we were greatly in need. We 
must have slept for a long time, when we were sud- 
denly startled by a loud burst of thunder, followed 
by sharp flashes of lightning that seemed to fairly 
shake the earth. The storm broke upon us with all 
Its fury; the rain fell in torrents, accompanied with 
hail stones that threatened our frail tent with destruc- 
tion. The water poured in on us from all sides, wet- 
ting our blankets and threatening to sweep us from our 
moorings. Suddenly a strong gust of wind sent the 
tent flying several yards away and left us entirely un- 
protected. Looking about us for some place of shelter, 
we discovered our old scow turned bottom side up 
on the bank of the river, just as we had left it in the 
fall. With a shout we all ran to it, and lifting the 
side found it afforded a very comfortable shelter. The 
seams were somewhat leaky, but soon tightened up 
as the rain continued to fall. We were wet to the 
skin, but the atmosphere was warm, and soon a feeling 

III 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

of drowsiness came over us, and In spite of our uncom- 
fortable condition were soon asleep. 

The sun was shining hot when we awoke the next 
day. It was nearly noon, and the air was hot and 
suffocating under the old boat. As we crept out from 
our hiding place and looked about, everything seemed 
to have changed. The earth was covered with a car- 
pet of green, with beautiful flowers growing here and 
there, while the moss-covered rocks and hills had ap- 
parently put on a new dress. We felt rested and re- 
freshed from our long sleep, and the change was no 
doubt in us more than in our surroundings. After 
spreading our blankets and wet clothing out to dry 
in the sun, we immediately began the task of calking 
the seams of the old scow, preparatory to making a trip 
to Herschel Island. 

The next day a boat load of Eskimo came up the 
river, among whom was "Oneac," a brother of our 
guide. They were very glad to assist us, and with 
their help we soon succeeded in launching the scow. 
All of our belongings we then deposited in the bot- 
tom of the old boat, and taking on the whole party 
rowed down to the mouth of the river, where a native 
settlement was located. 

The ice in the ocean was just breaking up, and the 
booming and grinding of the ice floes reminded us of 
our first experience when entering its waters a year 
before. Several days were spent in the settlement, 
waiting for the ice to move northward and the rough 
waters to calm down. The natives were all engaged 

112 



THE TRAIL 

In catching fish and drying them In the sun for future 
use. Our provisions being exhausted, we were obliged 
to depend entirely upon our dusky friends for food. 
While they were very kind and hospitable to us, their 
chief diet was fish, and as they used no salt or any 
kind of seasoning the food soon became very distaste- 
ful to us. 

It w^as now July, and we were getting very anxious 
to return to the island. Our only hope now was the 
prospect of capturing enough whales so that our profit 
would to some degree compensate for the useless ex- 
pense of our northern trip. Another consideration 
gave us encouragement; we were about to visit a part 
of the world seldom visited by white men, and would 
afford us a fine opportunity to trade with the natives 
whatever we could spare from our outfit. We should 
visit Cape Bathurst and the Eskimo village of Kopuck, 
and many other villages along the Smoky Mountains, 
on the coast of Lady Franklin Bay. 

In a few days a south wind sprang up, and as the 
heavy Ice began to move northward we hoisted sail, 
and by keeping well In shore arrived at the lower end 
of the Island in a short time. Here the cakes of Ice 
were so thick and heavy we decided to land and wait 
until we could row to the island, which was yet sev- 
eral miles to the northward. 

Munlchchuk and his family were anxious to pro- 
ceed, and started to walk the distance, while the re- 
mainder of the party, after pulling the boat well upon 
the shore, rolled up In blankets and were soon asleep. 

8 113 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

The morning following, finding that the ice had 
moved more to the eastward, we again launched our 
boat, and by hard rowing reached the island in safety. 
The captain of the whaling vessel met us as soon as 
we had landed, and the hearty welcome indicated to 
us his thankfulness that we had not succeeded in our 
anticipated wealth-getting. But what to him meant 
success, was to us the greatest disappointment of our 
lives. 

The guide and his family reached the village the 
same night they left us, and the news of our failure 
had reached the ears of every one long before we ar- 
rived. The only real true sympathy we received was 
from the missionary and his wife. They listened to 
our story w^ith much interest, and extended their heart- 
felt sympathy in our misfortune, and did all in their 
power to make our stay at the island a pleasant one. 

Much work had to be done before starting east- 
ward on the whaling expedition, and the captain as- 
sured us that we were liable to leave very soon if the 
wind and weather continued favorable. The furs 
that we had procured while on our trip to the Klon- 
dike regions were safely packed away in the store- 
house with the others. The provisions and outfit that 
we had left at the island were brought out and de- 
posited on board the vessel. Everything that we could 
spare that would be desirable to trade with the Eski- 
mos was set aside for that purpose. 

On July loth the captain of the Mary D. Hume 
informed us that the next day we would leave Her- 

114 



THE TRAIL 

schel Island and steam eastward in pursuit of the 
bowhead whale. Excitement prevailed throughout the 
village in anticipation of the departure of the whalers. 
Boatloads of Eskimos could be seen during the day 
approaching the island, while the shouting children and 
the yelping of scores of dogs added to the excitement 
of the village. Many of the natives brought fur and 
ivory tusks of the walrus, and many articles of their 
own invention for the trade of the whites. Fish, grouse, 
and saddles of deer meat could now be procured of 
the natives much cheaper than they could be caught, 
and the captain of the ship, taking advantage of this 
opportunity, laid in an abundant supply for the voy- 
age. Blueberries were also plenty, and our party by 
trading a few cups of dry tea secured a good supply. 
Munichchuk and family had by this time become 
wtII settled in a new igloo, which was a very comfort- 
able hut covered with caribou skins. So on the eve 
of our departure we called upon them for the purpose 
of completing a final settlement for their faithful serv- 
ices during the year. A small tent, two blankets, two 
dogs, one small skillet, a brass kettle, several beads, 
a small mirror, and several yards of red calico was the 
price agreed upon, but the two last articles mentioned 
were considered by them the most valuable and im- 
portant. After this price was agreed upon a red 
handkerchief was added for the wife, Sooky, and a 
small brass watch chain for the daughter, Silook, and 
we then left them as happy a family as I ever saw, 
feeling well paid for their long journey. 



XI 

With the Whalers 

The Mackenzie River and Icebergs — Fur 
Traders 

"Give her a jingle!" shouted the captain, as the vessel 
swung around and out of the little cove where for 
eight months she had lain securely imbedded in a thick- 
ness of several feet of ice. "Starboard! Steady!" to 
the man at the wheel, and the Alary D. Hume belched 
forth great columns of smoke as she started on her 
trip eastward to battle with the drifting floes and 
blockades of Arctic ice, more formidable at this time 
of the year, when anxiety to reach the whaling region 
causes the navigator to venture on the extreme edge 
of caution and take chances any hour of being caught 
among the shifting masses or driven ashore by the 
relentless pressure of the inswinging pack. Leaving our 
dogs to the care of the good missionary, this nth day 
of July found us leaving Herschel Island under a full 
head of steam, bound for Franklin Bay — three hundred 
miles away to the eastward. The crew was composed 
of twenty white men, and nearly the same number of 

ii6 



o 






> 



Co 
o 




WITH THE WHALERS 

Eskimos. Many of the Eskimos winter at the Island, 
having been brought there by the ships from the dif- 
ferent tribes along the coast. Living In their snow- 
Igloos, on friendly and sociable terms, good-natured 
and honest In their dealings with the white men, they 
show an ambition, especially the women, to adopt our 
customs, and In their crude way Imitate our dress and 
manners. 

As the vessel left the Island, the remaining Inhabit- 
ants could be seen standing In groups along the shore, 
shouting and gesticulating In the most exciting manner, 
while several of the leaders, crowding Into their skin 
boats, and making fast to the side of the ship by 
means of a long line, were loath to drop back until 
the Island appeared but a receding speck In the dis- 
tance. As the vessel rounded Kay Point, several 
natives were seen towing some object inshore, which 
on nearer approach we found to be the carcass of a 
grampus or white whale. The grampus are very 
numerous in Arctic waters and are much prized by 
the natives, not only for food and oil, but its skins, 
which are very tough, are used In constructing their 
long skin boats, and also for soles to their boots and 
shoes. 

The second day out we reached the mouth of the 
Mackenzie River, Into which we steamed and, casting 
anchor, procured fresh water sufficient for the season. 
Our course now lay directly to the north, where large 
icebergs could be seen floating and revolving, threaten- 
ing destruction to any object within their reach, and 

117 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

it was only with the strictest watchfulness of the man 
at the masthead that we were enabled to steer clear of 
them. 

On the morning of the third day we were awak- 
ened by a sudden jar of the vessel, which rocked vio- 
lently, swung partly around, and finally came to a 
standstill. Seven bells were struck, and all hands 
called on deck. We had reached the pack. As far 
north as the eye could reach was one solid body of ice. 
We cruised for several hours, shoving and crowding 
through leads and openings, forcing them often where 
they did not exist, and at last were obliged to make 
fast by running out the large hawsers, attached to ice- 
hooks, which were firmly embedded in the solid ice, 
and await the shifting of the wind or tide to open up 
a path through this impenetrable mass. Several miles 
to the eastward could be seen the high Rocky Mountain 
ranges, with wild gulches leading up nearly to the 
summit, while evidences of recent snowslides were 
plainly revealed in the debris of snow, rocks, and mud 
that lay mashed into unshapely masses at the base of the 
mountains. These snow or landslides are very numer- 
ous in the coast mountains, and having once seen them 
come thick and fast and heard their crash and roar, 
one never forgets the sight or the awe inspired by it. 
Climbing to the masthead, I scanned the horizon with 
my glass. A large expanse of dark, open water could 
be seen away to the north, while a short distance to 
the right several islands appeared, around which 
myriads of ducks could be seen circling about and 

Ii8 



WITH THE WHALERS 

dropping Into the small, open spaces nearby. The cap- 
tain informed us that this was an annual nesting place 
for ducks, and no doubt many eggs could be found 
by visiting the islands. I soon obtained his consent, 
and taking four natives with baskets, we lowered the 
ship's dingey and were soon rowing towards the islands. 
As I sat in the stern of the boat I could see the move- 
ments of the birds while steering clear of the drifting 
cakes of ice. Our approach did not seem to frighten 
them in the least, for they continued to circle just 
above our heads. Several times I raised my fowling- 
piece to fire, but the natives remonstrated with 
''Nock-ah! Al-luk-tah." (No shoot. Ducks go.) 
We soon reached the solid ice, and pulling the skifif 
well up, quickly walked across to the island. As we 
climbed up the rocky bank, scores of ducks could be 
seen fearlessly walking about. Taking the paddles 
which they had brought from the boat, the natives 
now rushed upon them, and before they could rise 
knocked down no less than a half dozen. They would 
then creep along to another bunch and surprise them 
in the same way. But this sport was too tame for me, 
and as a fine pair of canvas-back came wheeling toward 
me I raised my gun and dropped them both at the 
first shot. But what a transformation took place at 
the sound of my piece ! Birds seemed to spring up from 
under our very feet, and with a deafening roar they 
arose, darkening the air as they whirled about for a 
moment, and finally moved off in a body over the 
heavy ice towards the open water. The natives came 

119 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

slowly back, muttering to each other, and I knew 
by their black looks that they were displeased at the 
abrupt ending of their slaughter. 

Amid the jagged rocks scores of nests were found, 
constructed of seaweed and lined with an abundance 
of down, wherein were eggs in every stage of incuba- 
tion. I gathered up the game, while the natives filled 
the baskets with eggs and down. I found we had 
bagged no less than a score of canvas-backs and several 
specimens of the eider duck. But the majority were 
large, black ducks with broad, red bills, the sides of 
the head being white. This species is plentiful, both 
in the streams and along the coast. On reaching our 
skiff we found the tide was in and the waves rolling 
high. A strong wind had sprung up, and to return 
with the little boat was out of the question, so making 
it fast to a chunk of ice, we started on foot toward 
the ship. It was a long, circuitous tramp, and nearly 
night when we climbed on deck with our load. The 
vessel was rocking and beating the waves to a foam. 
At eight bells supper was served and the watch 
changed. A whaleboat was lowered and the skiff 
brought on board. The hawsers were loosed and 
snugly coiled on deck. The wind continued to rise, 
causing the vessel to move slowly to leeward. The 
black smoke began to roll out from her funnels, and the 
monotonous churning of the wheel began. 

Going down to the cabin, I put on my oilskins, 
a sou'wester, and rubber boots, and went on deck, 
where I remained until midnight. The night had 

120 



WITH THE WHALERS 

turned out cold and raw, with the wind shifting into 
the north and west, and the masses of clouds were 
broken into heavy scud, through which the midnight 
sun sailed like a fire-ship in a stormy sea. The pack, 
which for hours had been steadily crowding us shore- 
ward, seemed to have met with some undercurrent, 
for it ceased to move and soon we were again moving 
northward. 

On awakening the next morning we found a heavy 
mist falling, accompanied by a dense fog, making It 
difficult to see any distance. Soon a shout from the 
mate, ''Bears alongside!" brought all hands on deck. 
Looking to leeward, we could discern the white forms 
of several Polar bears walking back and forth along 
the edge of the solid ice not fifty yards from the ship. 
Running for my Marlin rifle, I quickly sent a ball 
crashing into the shoulder of the nearest and followed 
it up with several more shots, when with a roar he 
reared his full length in the air, and with blood cours- 
ing down his side, plunged into the water and swam 
directly toward us. Captain Hagerty, hearing the 
report, came rushing out with one of the ship's heavy 
rifles, and with a w^ell-directed shot Bruin rolled over 
and drifted back tow^ard the ice. The other bears 
did not appear frightened in the least, but stood sway- 
ing their huge bodies back and forth, sniffing the air 
as If wondering what was the meaning of such reckless 
Intrusion upon their peaceful domain. But they had 
not long to consider, for every man who could muster 
a rifle now began firing, and so much lead was ab- 

121 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

sorbed bj^ the bears that when all was over It was 
difficult to determine to whom the honors belonged. 
Six large bears and a cub were killed, but with great 
tenacity of life, they were game to the finish. Thanks 
to the gunwale of the ship for our safety from the 
ravenous brutes. Lowering the dingey, the carcasses 
were towed alongside and hauled on deck. The natives 
were set to removing the skins, while I climbed the 
rigging to the masthead and joined the mate. The 
sky was now clear, and we could see Franklin Bay, 
with the Smoky Mountains just beyond, away to the 
right. We had moved no less than one hundred miles 
to the northward within the last twelve hours. We 
were now approaching the whaling grounds, as plenty 
of signs indicated. ''Slick" or jellyfish could be seen 
floating In abundance, which is the food sought by 
these monsters of the deep. The whaleboats were 
put In readiness, and crews assigned. These boats are 
twenty feet long, with two sets of oar-locks, although 
when advancing upon a whale they are operated en- 
tirely by means of a sprit-sail. The crew is com- 
posed of six men — a mate, a boat steerer, and four 
sailors. The Hume carried four of these boats, each 
furnished with the following equipment: Three tubs 
of line, three hundred fathoms (eighteen hundred feet) 
in length ; three bomb guns, with harpoons attached ; 
ammunition, a glass, a fog-horn, gaff hooks, axes, 
knives, a cask of fresh water, and provisions for the 
crew sufficient for one meal. The engine was now 
stopped, the sails unfurled, and the captain, mounting 

122 



WITH THE WHALERS 

to the ''crow's nest" at the masthead, gave orders for 
every one on board to vs^atch for a blow. 

About midnight a brig was sighted oif to eastward, 
and shifting our course, we came up to her in a few 
hours. She proved to be the Beluga, with Captain 
Bodfish In command, who had been three years in the 
Arctic, stopping the last winter at Bailey Island, and 
who already had taken twenty-three heads of bone and 
was returning to his winter quarters to coal up for his 
trip homeward. The captain and the first mate were 
rowed alongside, and were soon shaking hands and 
exchanging experiences with the officers of the brig. 
As we came nearer the island, which is a long, narrow 
sand-spit, several boatloads of Eskimos came out to 
meet us, bringing fish, furs, moccasins, and all manner 
of skin clothing to trade for flour, molasses, and other 
articles which they have learned to appreciate since 
coming in contact with the whites. Several fine speci- 
mens of walrus tusks were secured, about twenty 
Arctic fox skins, a fine head of caribou horns for 
mounting, and a Polar bear skin. For these we traded 
tea, tobacco, beads, and several pieces of red calico. 
Among the natives that came aboard the whaler at this 
place was a young Eskimo girl about sixteen years of 
age, who was the daughter of a Cogmolok chief. Her 
hair was rolled in the finest style after the native 
fashion, her chin was Indelibly penciled with red and 
blue marks that indicated royalty. Her form, sym- 
metrical and perfect; her large, lustrous eyes and smil- 
ing face attracted attention of both white men and 

123 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

natives. Her outer dress, which hung in heavy folds 
from her shoulders, reached to w^ithin a iew inches 
of her feet, and w^as composed of pure black fox skins 
w^ith no less than a dozen of the tails, which were 
tipped with a few hairs of white. These skins are 
worth no less than $200 apiece, and her artige con- 
tained about twenty skins. She seemed much amused 
to see so many whites and hear us try to speak her 
language, although she could not speak a word of Eng- 
lish. She made us each a present of some toy of native 
invention, and then left us without a word or act to 
show her regret, or bid us good-bye, and after she 
had once left the ship did not even turn her head to 
look after us again, which is the custom of the Eskimo 
royalty. 

What these natives most desired was one of the 
w^hale guns that they had seen used with such deadly 
effect. They offered the captain eight silver fox skins 
for one, but he had none to spare, as its absence might 
impede the capture of a whale, which would have 
been a loss of several thousand dollars. A gun cost 
but five dollars. The fox skins, I learned on arriving 
at San Francisco, are worth fifty dollars each. I have 
since then often regretted that my stock in trade was 
so limited, as I could easily have secured a snug little 
fortune in furs for the market. As this extreme north 
country is beyond the trade limits of the Hudson Bay 
Company, the natives are wasting the very finest quali- 
ties of furs in the construction of rude clothing and 
trimmings, as their fancy dictates — furs which would 

124 



WITH THE WHALERS 

bring thousands of dollars in our markets, and which 
could be secured at a trifling expense in trinkets or 
gaudy trappings. 

After cruising about in this vicinity for several 
days, it was decided to steam to the northward and 
follow the heavy ice, which was now drifting with a 
heavy south wind. The second day out a whale was 
raised off to windward, and all the boats were lowered 
and gave chase. But in the haste and excitement the 
whale became "gallied" and turned flukes at the first 
approach. And although we waited several hours for 
him to rise again, nothing more could be seen, and the 
signal was hoisted to the mizzen peak, calling all hands 
on board again. The boats had just been hoisted to 
the davits when a shout from the captain, up in the 
crow's nest, "There she blows, off the port bow!'* 
caused us all to look in that direction, where two 
spouts of water twenty-five feet high could be seen, 
not over five hundred yards to the left of the ship. 
The order was given to lower again, and with great 
caution the chase began. Not a word was spoken 
above a whisper. At the second rise the boat of the 
first mate was but a few feet away, and hauling to, ran 
dircetly over the back of the whale. The word was 
given and the boat steerer raised the gun and sent the 
harpoon deep into the back of the monster. As the 
trigger came In contact wnth the black skin a sharp 
report rang out, followed by a louder roar as the bomb 
exploded in the very vitals of the whale. With a 
sudden quiver he began to sink; but he was not to be 

125 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

taken so easily as supposed, for no sooner had he sunk 
from sight than the rope began to play out until the 
smoke rolled from the loggerhead, and the boat, with 
sail now lowered, was flying through the water at a 
high rate of speed. But soon the rope slackened and 
was quickly taken in, and as he rose again, two red 
streams shot upward, and falling directly into the boat, 
deluged the crew with water and blood. With a few 
well-directed strokes of the oars, the boat again shot 
close to the side of the now struggling mammal, and 
the second gun did its deadly work. With a hissing 
roar, like escaping steam, he rolled over dead in the icy 
waters. A small black flag was raised from the bow 
of the boat as a signal to the ship, which steamed up, 
and the dead whale was towed alongside. He was a 
bull of enormous size, measuring fifty feet in length, 
the estimated weight being twenty tons. The bow- 
head is the only specie of whale that inhabit the Arctic 
Ocean, and derives its name from the peculiar bow- 
shaped formation of its head and nose. The bone of 
this whale is of the very best quality, and a single 
capture will produce an average weight of two thou- 
sand pounds of whalebone to the head, the bone bring- 
ing, when prepared for the market, from four to six 
dollars a pound. 

A platform was now raised and made fast a few 
feet above the body of the whale, and the work of 
cutting in began. A huge crane swung out from the 
mainmast, from which hung a large block and tackle, 
with hooks which were fastened into the back of the 

126 



WITH THE WHALERS 

head and operated by a small engine on the main 
deck. As the carcass was raised, a half dozen men 
sprang from the platform with long spades and pro- 
ceeded to cut off his head. As the vertebrae was 
reached, one of the steerers, equipped with a heavy ax, 
and dressed In oilskins, slid down into the chasm of 
blood and blubber and, supported by a rope attached 
to his waist, proceeded to sever this enormous bone. 
Ten minutes' hard work and the head pitched for- 
ward, and the sharp spades did the rest. The engine 
was set in motion, and as the ponderous head swung 
on deck, a yell of exultation burst from the lips of 
every one on board. 

The whalebone is attached to the upper jaw, and 
hangs in thin slabs, thickly set together, crosswise of 
the gums, while from the inner edge of these slabs 
protrude long, thick fibers resembling horsehair, and 
completely filling the mouth. These slabs vary in 
length from a few inches up to thirteen feet, the largest 
ones being In front. They are fourteen Inches wide 
where they enter the gums, but taper to a point, from 
which the hair extends for several feet. While feeding 
the mouth remains open, and as the water rushes 
through it is forced through the blowholes, and the 
food swallowed. I found by actual count that each 
head contains 586 slabs of bone. 

As the remains of the head splashed overboard, 
the sails were again hoisted, and each one Instructed to 
keep a strict watch. The crew, after cutting in their 
first whale of the season, had settled down for a few 

127 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

moments of much-needed rest, when a blow was sighted 
about a mile away to the northeast. Two boats were 
Immediately lowered and gave chase. A few moments 
later a second blow was observed about the same dis- 
tance to eastward, and a third boat was lowered and 
started In pursuit. "She blows!" shouted the men 
at the masthead, as the first whale again came to the 
top of the water, and with a loud, hissing noise, like 
escaping steam, sent two streams of water thirty feet 
into the air, which fell In a spray over the great black 
hulk of the enormous bowhead. But his day-dream 
was soon cut short, for the boat of the first mate had 
shot close to his side, and the deadly harpoon was 
driven Into the flesh of the monster. As the bomb 
exploded, a quiver shook the icy waters as they closed 
over his back. Instantly the line began to play out, 
the smoke rolled from the loggerhead, and the boat 
with sails now lowered was cutting through the water 
at a fearful rate of speed. A large expanse of ice lay 
directly north of the ship, and toward this the wounded 
whale now headed. Soon the speed slackened and the 
line was quickly taken In. The question that now 
quickly confronted the excited crew was, "Would he 
blow again before going under the Ice?" Something 
must be done, and done very quickly. If the mad rush 
continues the line must necessarily be severed to save 
their lives. Again the speed increases, and the last foot 
of line Is out. The water Is dyed with blood. The 
boat grinds Into the slush-Ice, but with a quick stroke 
of the knife the mate severs the line. The momentum 

128 



WITH THE WHALERS 

gained sends the boat against the solid ice with great 
force. Consternation and disappointment is on every 
face. The whale had received his deathblow, was the 
opinion of all as they sprang from the boat upon the 
ice floe. Twenty minutes had now passed since he 
last arose ; he could not stay under water much longer 
than that and live. An uninjured whale might pos- 
sibly hold his breath for thirty minutes, but when in- 
jured must necessarily breathe more frequently. "She 
blows!" came a shout from the ship; quickly looking 
across the ice to the eastward, the wounded whale was 
seen lashing the water to a foam, the whole length of 
his body visible, while blood was shooting upward at 
every breath. 

The last crew that left the ship was returning 
along the edge of the ice when the wounded whale 
shot out of the water within a few yards of them, 
nearly capsizing the boat, and deluged the crew with 
water and blood. A few^ quick strokes of the oar 
brought their boat near the side of the struggling 
monster, and a second harpoon was driven to the heart. 
A loud, muflfled report was heard as the bomb exploded, 
and the prize rolled over dead in the Arctic waters. 

Several other whales were captured within the next 
few days, one being a cow of enormous size, which had 
a young calf at her side. Whenever the mother whale 
would come to the surface the little one could be seen 
quietly resting on her flukes, or holding on to the 
breast in real baby fashion. It appeared heartless on 
the part of the whalers to deprive the little one of 

9 129 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

Its parental protection, but the prize was too tempting, 
and the deadly bomb did the cruel work. The calf, 
now left alone to the fate of the deep, continued to 
follow the ship for several days, but finally disappeared 
altogether. 

One day, during the fore part of August, while 
three of the boats were out, a spout was seen close 
to leeward of the ship. The second mate was ordered 
to lower the remaining boat and give chase. Taking 
two sailors, myself, and two natives, he started In pur- 
suit. The weather was threatening, and the sun, which 
for nearly two months had been constantly visible, 
was now settling for the first time below the horizon 
Into the vast expanse of Ice. For nearly an hour we 
cruised about, and as no more signs appeared, a signal 
was given from the mizzen mast for our return. When 
suddenly, with a hissing noise, two streams of water 
shot Into the air, and a black mass arose under the 
very bow of the boat we were In, nearly precipitating 
us into the water. Without waiting for orders from 
the mate, the excited boat-steerer caught up the nearest 
gun and plunged the harpoon Into the only visible part 
of the now thoroughly frightened whale. With a 
splash of his great flukes, he quickly disappeared. The 
next instant our boat was cutting through the waves 
at a high rate of speed, the spray flying from either side 
higher than our heads, and the smoke rolling from the 
loggerhead as the line w^hlch encircled It played out 
faster and faster. The mate, now thoroughly enraged, 
rained curses upon the head of the boat-steerer for 

130 



WITH THE WHALERS 

acting without orders, for in his excitement he had 
struck the whale too far back, inflicting but a slight 
wound which might prove fatal to us all. We knew 
he must come to the surface to breathe in twenty 
minutes at least, but what might happen before then 
no one knew. A fog was settling around us, and 
into it we rushed like mad men. Fifteen minutes 
passed and still the line played out. In an instant 
the mate bent on another line, and still the mad rush 
went on. A grating noise was heard, and glancing 
back we saw a large ice floe directly in our wake. Sup- 
posing our boat had struck it! I begged the mate to 
cut the line and save our lives, but he would not hear 
me. The line slackened a little and was quickly taken 
in. The boat ceased its momentum, and was only 
propelled by the taking in of the line. A loud, hissing 
noise like escaping steam was again heard, but the fog 
prevented our seeing the whale. Once more he blows, 
this time much nearer. 

The miate sat holding on the tiller in dogged 
silence, with eyes looking straight ahead, as if to pene- 
trate the dense fog. I looked at my v/atch. It was 
just midnight. At this rate of speed we would soon 
reach the main pack of ice, and that would be the end. 
Would the mate cut the line and save us? I grasped 
the handle of the knife that hung from my belt. Again 
the line slackened, and our hopes revived. For a few 
moments we gained upon him. This time he was up 
for ten minutes, and the boat, vigorously propelled by 
the oars, shot close to his side. Again he gave us the 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

slip before the order was given to strike, but his speed 
was much retarded from fatigue or loss of blood. Sud- 
denly the mate sprang to his feet, exclaiming, "Listen !" 
and a low, roaring noise could be heard, and every one 
knew what it meant. It was the waves dashing against 
the pack ice. A few quick orders from the mate, and 
each man sprang to the oars. The boat shot ahead, 
the line was thrown off and left to sink beneath the 
waves. He would blow again before going beneath 
the ice, and that would be our last chance. As he 
arose to the surface, our boat was but a few yards to 
leeward, and guided by the sound, we were soon at 
his side. "Give it to him!" shouted the mate, and 
the harpoon pierced the black skin directly over the 
heart. As the bomb exploded a quiver shook the 
water, and without a struggle he rolled over, dead. 
Rowing to the pack, we towed the carcass close to 
the ice and made the line fast to one of the jagged 
chunks that lay scattered about. Drawing our boat 
upon the ice, we sat down to consider our situation. 
We were lost — that was without question. We had 
only enough provisions for one meal. The fog might 
last for several days, or even weeks. A mist was fall- 
ing, and we were already wet to the skin. We had 
no way of knowing how far we were from the ship. 
We had been running directly north, and a strong 
south wind was still blowing, which might enable us 
to hear the ship's whistle, but the fog would prevent 
them from seeing us, even with the strongest glass, 
and they no doubt were beyond the sound of the fog- 

132 



WITH THE WHALERS 

horn. We each blew until our lungs were sore, but 
the roaring of the waves drowned every other sound, 
so we turned our attention to making ourselves as 
comfortable as possible. Being without shelter or fire, 
we appealed to the Eskimos, who replied, "Shu-vuck- 
too Igloo" (build house). We told them to go ahead, 
and taking axes they began cutting cakes of ice, and 
by fitting them together soon constructed a low hut 
after the fashion of their snow houses. This being 
finished, they cut a large chunk of blubber from the 
carcass of the whale, and after depositing it upon the 
floor of the hut with the skin side up, cut a large hole 
in the top sufficient to hold several gallons. This they 
filled with oil taken from the whale, and by using strips 
of boat sail for wick, soon had a comfortable fire. We 
ate sparingly of our provisions, but the natives, after 
eating their fill of blubber, were contented, and rolling 
themselves like Husky dogs, were soon snoring by the 
side of the fire. But little sleep visited our eyes, and 
the night was spent in trying to dry our damp clothing. 
The next day was spent in strengthening the walls of 
our hut with more cakes of ice, as a fortification against 
the attack of bears. The bomb guns were reloaded and 
placed near the entrance to the hut. The dull hours 
were spent in conversing on the many topics of interest 
that occupied our minds. The great Ice pack reaching 
far and wide over the Arctic Ocean for hundreds of 
miles to the north, and constantly drifting with the 
wind and tide, might carry us beyond the reach of 
human aid. Should the wind continue to blow from 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

the south, why should we not eventually reach the 
North Pole? And how should we know when we 
were at the ninetieth degree without instruments? 
And if we did know, and should plant the flag of our 
beloved country at the pole, what proof could we leave 
at that place to prove to any successful explorer that 
we were first to discover the pole? 

And should the wind shift to the north, would not 
that same flag go with us, even to the southern coast, 
if the north wind continue to blow? And yet millions 
of dollars are spent, and lives sacrificed by Arctic ex- 
plorers in a determination to find an obscure portion of 
this globe, where no earth or stationary surroundings 
exist, and where the foot of man has never trod, and 
never will. These mysterious questions and many 
others of like nature engaged our thoughts and served 
to beguile the lonely hours, while we waited and prayed 
that something might occur or some change take place 
to break the monotony of our perilous surroundings 
and rescue us from impending doom. 

Time dragged slowly. Each hour seemed almost a 
day as we consulted together about the probable out- 
come of our unfortunate position. The pack must be 
drifting to the northward, and if the fog did not rise 
soon all hope of being rescued by the ship would be 
lost, for the captain well knew the danger of venturing 
too far north so late in the season, which would imperil 
the vessel and lives of the crew. 

The second night came on, damp and gloomy. The 
last morsel of our provisions was gone, and slices of 



WITH THE WHALERS 

blubber, smoked and slightly cooked by the blaze, were 
relished alike by us all. 

Another sleepless night was passed, and still the 
weather continued the same. The wind shifted to east- 
ward, and throughout the day the fog-horn was blown 
at intervals. As the third night approached, a fire was 
built outside the hut. Later the wind shifted to north- 
ward, and our hopes revived. Would the fog rise, 
and was the ship still in that locality? A sleet began 
to fall, but froze as soon as it struck the ice. We 
huddled together inside the hut, and finally overcome 
with drowsiness, fell into a troubled sleep. Once more 
I was in my Southern home with loved ones about me, 
a table was spread with wholesome food. I tried to 
eat, but my stomach revolted. A nauseating pain 
seemed to almost choke me. But some one is calling, 
"A-wa! A~wa!" It is the Eskimo word for listen. 
I sprang to my feet, bewildered. Again the call from 
the outside of the hut. I rushed out. Two natives 
were standing with arms extended and head tilted to 
one side to catch the sound. The wind had ceased, 
and snow was falling. Soon a sound came to us, 
echoing across the water, faintly. It was the ship's 
whistle. But how far away ? Catching up the burning 
wick, I waved it back and forth until the last spark had 
gone out. We then turned our attention to making 
as big a blaze as possible. 

The sky overhead was now clear and the fog was 
breaking away. We had left the ship on Thursday 
night, and this was Sunday morning. I lifted my heart 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

to Him who rules both land and sea. Would He be 
merciful to us on this, His day? As the day advanced 
the sky became clear and the sun shone forth like a 
large ball of fire. The air was cold and crisp, but 
nothing daunted, we each took o£E our great coats and 
hoisted them to the top of the mast for a signal to 
the ship. The suspense for the next few hours was 
almost unendurable. We looked and looked until our 
eyes ached, but no ship could be seen. Not a sound 
had we heard since the night before. Had they left 
us forever? 

We still had the whaleboat, and could not starve 
with such a supply of whale meat. We would at least 
make an effort to reach land. It w^as not safe to re- 
main longer on the ice, which was liable to separate 
at any time and revolve without a moment's warning. 
The boat was therefore launched preparatory for our 
departure. A few slabs of bone were next cut out and 
laid in the bottom, on top of which large chunks of 
blubber were snugly packed. The wind being in our 
favor, the sail was repaired and hoisted, and we were 
about to start on our perilous trip, when one of the 
natives was seen to climb to the top of the hut, and 
looking eastward a moment, exclaimed, "Tow-Took! 
Ome-Ak-Puk!" (Look! A ship!) We each quickly 
looked in the direction indicated. A small, dark spot 
resembling smoke could barely be distinguished against 
the eastern horizon. The mate caught up the glass. 
Yes, it was the ship, heading directly toward us under 
a full head of steam. They had seen our signal. How 

136 



WITH THE WHALERS 

we shouted, and shook each other's hands until the 
tears started from our eyes! In another hour the 
Mary D. Hume came in full view, her sails furled and 
her ice-clad halliards glistened in the glorious morning 
sunlight. And as we were taken on board, more dead 
than alive, we thanked the Great Father for the preser- 
vation of our lives from the fate of the deep. The 
bone was scon "cut in" from the whale we had killed, 
and the vessel turned southward. By consulting the 
instruments, it was found that we were 78° 33' N. — 
probably the furthest north ever ventured by any Arctic 
whaling vessel. 

Putting on a full head of steam, the vessel was run 
under a jingle and in four days reached Bailey Island. 
The Beluga had started on her homeward trip with 
twenty-six heads of bone, and stopping at Herschel 
Island took on forty-three more (which she had taken 
on the two previous seasons), making a grand total of 
sixty-nine heads — being the largest catch on record by 
the Arctic fleet. The Hume lingered here only a few 
days, but succeeded in capturing several more whales, 
and started homeward with nineteen heads of bone, 
eight Polar bear skins, and several walrus. Seals being 
very numerous, several dozen skins were added to the 
cargo during the return trip. These are not the fur 
seal, but are known as the ''hair seal," and are com- 
paratively of little value. 

On August 26th we reached Herschel Island and 
were warmly and hilariously welcomed by the natives, 
whose custom it is to swarm en masse on board every 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

vessel that comes within reach of shore. Before our 
lines were made fast the whole population had turned 
out, shouting and gesticulating in the wildest excite- 
ment as they scrambled up the ship's sides, dragging 
their heavy sealskin "poke-sacks," without which an 
Eskimo never travels. The day was spent in trading 
our dogs, provisions, and cast-off clothing to the natives 
for furs, ivory, and relics, which added much to our 
collection. 

The Eskimo ambition to imitate the white man's 
manner and dress is often quite marked, and is some- 
times amusing in the extreme. An old coat, or a pair 
of trousers are prized very highly and considered a 
valuable addition to their attire, and worn by all with- 
out regard to sex. 

The next few daj^s were spent in preparing for our 
long voyage homeward. The whaling apparatus was 
safely stowed away in the warehouse, the bear skins 
that had trailed from the spanker boom were taken 
below, and the whalebone, tied into bundles, was se- 
curely packed into the ship's hold. The rigging was 
then carefully overhauled and everything put in readi- 
ness for the homeward trip. The nights were getting 
very cold, and thin ice was beginning to form around 
the ship as we bade the missionary and his family good- 
bye, and raising anchor, steamed out of the little cove 
into the broad expanse of the ocean. The Stars and 
Stripes were hoisted to the masthead, where it proudly 
floated above the Union Jack, and amid a din of shouts 
from the natives, and the yelping of many Huskies, we 

138 



WITH THE WHALERS 

left the place where we had spent nearly two years 
of Arctic life, with mingled joy and sorrow, adventure 
and peril, bright hopes and disappointment, to battle 
again with the wind and wave for forty-two days on a 
return trip to our beloved America. Before us were 
the ice-floes of the Arctic, the closing in at Point Bar- 
row, the rocks and reefs of the Bering Straits, and the 
rolling forties of the Northern Pacific Ocean, all to 
encounter and overcome before we could reach home 
and loved ones. 



139 



XII 

Homeward Bound 

Closed In — Point Barrow — At Cape Nome — 
Where Did Wegmer Get His Money? 

The Mary D, Hume was a two-masted brig of about 
one hundred and fifty tons burden, and was also 
equipped with engines and propelled by steam whenever 
the wind was contrary. For three years she had win- 
tered In the Arctic, and while she was considered sea- 
worthy by her owners, old sailors shook their heads 
as we left the Island, for the work of capturing whales 
requires a vessel of strength and endurance which many 
larger ships than the Hume did not possess. As Arm- 
strong, the second mate, replied when asked his opinion, 
"She be a good dry-weather hulk, but If she be struck 
by a squall, look out." But the captain assured us 
of the safety of his vessel, and with anxiety to be on 
the way, we settled down to the task assigned us, and 
like true seamen obeyed the orders of our superior 
officers. After a few hours of apprenticeship, Thomp- 
son was assigned to assist the engineer, SIsk and Jack 
as deck hands, while I was supposed to take my turn 
at the wheel. The second day out a north wind sprang 

140 



HOMEWARD BOUND 

up, and the floating Ice began to crowd us shoreward. 
The mates kept up a continual watch from the mast- 
head to avoid the threatening Ice-floes. 

On reaching Point Barrow we found that we were 
completely headed off by the solid Ice. As far north as 
the eye could reach was a solid field of Icebergs, some 
towering forty feet In the air, and others nearly level 
w^Ith the surface of the ocean. In vain we sought for 
an opening, but to no purpose. The great body con- 
tinued to crowd us toward the shore until the Coast 
Mountains could be seen not more than a mile away. 
A hurried consultation took place betw^een the captain 
and the mates, and the ship was then run ahead again 
as far into the moving mass as It could go, and was soon 
surrounded by solid ice. The great danger of being 
crushed w^as now apparent to all, and with great appre- 
hension we watched the moving mass. The vessel 
creaked and grated as the pressure increased, but the 
formation of the keel caused It to be lifted, and the dan- 
ger lessened thereby. We were now at the mercy of the 
w^Ind. If It continued from the north, the Ice would 
soon congeal and the solid mass would remain during 
the whole winter. Our only hope was in the south 
wind springing up and thereby release us from prison 
before we were frozen in fast for the winter. The Ice 
soon ceased to move, and the danger of being crushed 
was nearly past, but no open water could be seen in 
any direction. We each left our post of duty, and 
all collected on deck. The fires were allowed to burn 
low, as we were obliged to patiently w^ait. But when 

141 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

on the second morning our condition was unaltered, 
our party of four decided to pack our belongings ashore 
and, if the weather did not change, to make our way 
on foot to Cape Nome, and there meet the United 
States revenue cutter and arrange for transportation to 
San Francisco. Taking a small tent with us, we 
started across the ice toward shore with our heavy packs. 
Again we seemed doomed to disappointment. Th^ 
possibility of our spending another winter in the land 
of snow and ice made us heartsick and lonely. But 
we would do our best before all hope of escape was 
past. Again the question came to us, ''Would we 
succeed ?" 

On reaching land, we pitched our tent and decided 
to wait one day more before turning our backs upon 
the possible chance of proceeding by ship. 

It was late in the evening, with no signs of any 
change in the weather, when we ceased our consul- 
tation and rolled up in our blankets for the night. 
But the w^ind shifted and the weather became warmer, 
and so comfortable was our slumber that it was broad 
dajdight before we awoke the next morning. As we lay 
3/awning in our comfortable bunks, we were suddenly 
startled by the shrill whistle from the direction of the 
ship. Springing up, we hurriedly dressed, thinking 
that some new trouble had befallen the crew. But 
as we stepped outside a shout of joy rang out from 
the lips of each one. There stood the ship at anchor 
within a half mile of the shore, with steam up ready 
to start. A strong south wind had sprung up while 

142 



HOMEWARD BOUND 

we were sleeping, breaking up the whole field of ice, 
and the old whaling vessel again stood out proudly in 
the blue Arctic waters. A lifeboat was already on 
its way to bring us back, and once more we lifted our 
hearts to the great Giver of all good, whose pro- 
tection had constantly been over us, and whose guiding 
hand had brought us safely through perils by land 
and sea, and whose Word had been our only comfort 
when no human help was near or friend to sympathize. 
And an earnest prayer burst forth from our lips for 
His continued guidance during our homeward voj^age. 

We soon rounded Point Barrow^ and arrived at 
the Government Refuge Station. The anchor was cast 
off, a boat was lowered, and the day spent on shore. 
We were now on American soil, and our hearts beat 
with pride as we considered the extent of our pos- 
sessions. Our readers will realize somewhat the dis- 
tance to this northern extremity of Alaska, when we 
remember that the Stars and Stripes which catch the 
breeze at this station float w^ithin nine hundred miles 
of the North Pole. 

Here also was located the northernmost mission in 
the world. The very fact that mail is received but 
once a year easily makes it that. One has but to 
think what it would mean to him, accustomed to 
several m.ails a day, to telegraph and telephone com- 
munication, to wait twelve long, tedious months with- 
out a single word from home or the outside world to 
break the silence. Shut in and shut out. Here also 
is located the Government Reindeer Station. These 

143 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

tame reindeer of Siberia were Introduced Into Alaska 
by the Government but a short time before, and only 
about fifty were there at this time. These animals 
are wonderfully adapted to the cold regions of the 
Northwest, and feed on the tundra or white moss that 
Is found In abundance. The native Eskimos have been 
taught their care and management, so that they might 
live off these herds. Every part of the reindeer are of 
use to the natives. They are very fleet of foot and can 
travel a hundred miles a day. 

The reindeer proved their efficiency In a Govern- 
ment relief expedition in 1897, ^o^ the relief of ship- 
wrecked sailors at Point Barrow, when they made a 
long journey north of the Arctic Circle In midwinter, 
one thousand miles over a route never before traveled, 
even by dogs, across frozen seas and snow-capped moun- 
tains. At the relief station there are kept constantly 
on hand, stowed away in the storehouses, provisions 
sufficient for a dozen whaling crews for two years. 

The mission was conducted by Dr. Marsh and his 
wife, and was a means of doing good and effectual 
work among the Eskimos. During the cold weather 
Dr. Marsh would visit the natives In their snow huts, 
riding behind his reindeer team, and always found them 
willing to attend the service In large crowds. 

Towards evening a favorable wind began to blow, 
and leaving this point, we resumed our journey south- 
ward. Passing the Sea-horse Island and Point Hope, 
we sighted East Cape, on the Siberian Coast. The 
wind again became contrary, and It was with difficulty 
144 



HOMEWARD BOUND 

that we could make any headway. Two days later 
we passed Farewell Rock and arrived at Cape Prince 
of Wales. Many natives came on board at this place, 
bringing" fur and articles to trade, which enabled us 
to secure fine specimens to add to our collection. 
Among the skins brought on board were several skins 
of the mottled seal, which surpass all other skins for 
beauty and luster. The natives continued to remain 
on shipboard until we reached the Pacific Steam Whal- 
ing Company's coaling station at Port Clarence. Here 
we landed, and for three days the forecastle hands, 
together with all the natives that could be pressed 
Into Vv^ork, were engaged in filling the ship's coal 
bunkers with coal from this station. On the loth 
day of September we were ready to start. The natives 
w^ere paid off; those who had accompanied us from 
Herschel Island, many of whom had lived on board 
the Hume for three years, were all left behind at this 
place, and men, women, children, and dogs, with their 
belongings, all huddled together on the coast, as the 
ship steamed away for the last time, leaving them to 
return to their old haunts and modes of living. 

We were now In the Bering Strait, and navigation 
being favorable, made good progress, and In short time 
rounded Sledge Island and landed opposite Cape Nome. 

This mining village Is located on the northwestern 
coast of Alaska, and at this time (1899) the only 
Inhabitants were a few miners, living In tents and 
shacks, and a more discouraged and homesick set of 
men I never saw. The land along the coast Is low 
10 145 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

and level, and It was with great difficulty that we 
could land at all. As no harbor could be found near 
this place, we were obliged to anchor some distance 
out, and row In with small boats. Gold had only been 
discovered near the mountains, and the output was not 
very flattering. Little did we think at that time that 
six months would not pass until this barren cape would 
become the great Eldorado of the Northwest, with an 
Inhabitance of thirty-five thousand people. 

Many of the mJners were without provisions suf- 
ficient for the winter, and were supplied from the 
whaling vessel until the surplus was exhausted. One 
of the miners came on board and offered the captain 
one dollar per pound for a sack of flour, but was re- 
fused. Others begged to be taken to San Francisco, 
and offered large inducements in gold to accompany 
us, but as no vacancy was left unfilled, and the whalers 
are not allowed to carry passengers, their offers could 
not be accepted. Many of the miners had left their 
claims unworked, and with a team of one or two dogs, 
were making their way across the mountains toward 
Dawson City. Others tried to sell their claims to us 
for a meager sum with which to get away from the 
place, declaring that they would starve If they re- 
mained at Cape Nome. Among those who came on 
board our ship at Cape Nome was a man whose ap- 
pearance attracted the attention of every one. His 
face wore a sad expression, and the deep furrows that 
outlined his features gave him the appearance of a 
person haunted by some great sorrow of the past. His 

146 



HOMEWARD BOUND 

name was Carroll, and the story he told caused much 
consternation on board ship, especially among the mem- 
bers of our party. 

This man had come to the Klondike when the first 
gold discovery was made in the Northwest Territory, 
near Dawson City, and had been successful in accumu- 
lating several thousand dollars. But later his mine 
had run out, and for some time luck seemed to be 
against him. One day he fell in with a young man 
that had been working a mine on shares, and becoming 
discouraged, they together originated a scheme by which 
they might make money. Consequently they invested 
several dollars in fancy calico, knives, and beads, to- 
gether with many trinkets, to trade to the natives, 
and taking a small tent and camping outfit, they started 
for the Arctic Coast. Passing up the Porcupine River, 
they reached the Old Crow Mountains. Here they 
began to blaze a trail across the Davidson Mountains 
and reached the coast over the same route that has 
already become familiar to our readers. Here they 
exchanged their stock with the Eskimos for dogs, with 
which they returned to Dawson over the same trail 
on which they came. These dogs were sold to the 
miners at an enormous profit of several hundred dollars. 
So well pleased were they with their enterprise that 
they decided to extend their business, and immediately 
invested in a large amount of trading stock, and after 
securing help from the native Loucheaux Indians, 
started again over the same trail. A chart had been 
made out while on the previous trip, which was now 

147 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

revised and a permanent trail established. When the 
head waters of the Babbage River was reached, they 
constructed a raft from the small pines that grew along 
the foothills, and after several days of hard work, man- 
aged to reach the coast and landed near the whale 
carcass that was stranded a short distance from shore. 
Here they established a permanent trading post, and 
spent the whole winter in trading with the Eskimos 
for dogs. A cabin was built from driftwood that was 
thickly strewn along the shore, and their dogs were 
fed from the whale blubber. During the winter nights 
many Arctic foxes would frequent the place to feed 
from the whale carcass, and many skins were secured 
by setting traps. 

Toward spring, as the days began to lengthen and 
the weather to moderate, they packed up their belong- 
ings, and taking nearly two hundred Husky dogs, they 
returned to the mining camp at Dawson City, over 
the same trail described by our chart. Here they found 
ready sale for their dogs at a Klondike price, and 
quickly exchanged them for gold dust. They had now 
between them about $20,000. 

The young man had become very anxious to return 
to the Southern States, but was discouraged in this 
by Carroll, who wished to spend another winter on 
the coast. One day a miner came to their camp who 
had just sold his claim and was going to return home 
the next week, having about $15,000 in gold. His 
name was Johnsen, a native of Sweden, who had left 
his own country but a few years before to make his 
148 



HOMEWARD BOUND 

fortune in America. He was much elated over his 
success, and was anxious to return to his people and 
country. The young man was now more determined 
than ever to return with Johnsen to the States. A 
stormy protest from Carroll ensued, which ended in 
a division being made of the profits from the trading 
enterprise, and he prepared to return to his home with 
about $10,000. The day was set for their departure. 
The men all drank freely, and on the evening before 
they were to go, all met at a saloon for a time of 
drunkenness and debauchery. It was noticed that 
while the young man spent his money freely, himself 
drank very little. But Carroll was somewhat addicted 
to drink and drank heavily, and was carried to his 
shack the next morning in an insensible condition, and 
as he did not recover, a physician was called, who 
pronounced it a case of having been drugged. Sus- 
picion fell immediately upon the two miners who had 
left during the night of the revelry and had not been 
seen by any one afterwards. Carroll kept his money 
in a secret place, known only to himself and the young 
man who had been his partner. His friends searched 
the one room in which he lived, but could find no 
trace of his gold. Rumors of a bold robbery having 
been committed was soon spread through the town, 
and many people flocked to Carroll's camp. Although 
excitement ran high and many threats were made, they 
were powerless to act intelligently until the unfortu- 
nate man recovered consciousness, and they could do 
nothing but wait. For several days Carroll struggled 
149 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

between life and death. Search was continued for 
some secret place where his wealth might be secreted, 
but all to no purpose. A week passed before he was 
able to articulate or understand a word. Finally, one 
morning as he appeared much improved, he was asked 
if he knew where his gold was left. He looked be- 
wildered for a moment, and then, pointing to a corner 
of the room, motioned for them to look above the bunk 
on which he lay. The bed was moved out, and under 
his directions an opening made in the wall by removing 
a narrow piece of board which had been fitted into 
place. This opening revealed a half-length of stove- 
pipe, securely fastened at each end by sheet-iron covers, 
which were soldered fast. On the side of the pipe was 
a slide about six inches in length, which was wide open. 
This pipe was removed and held up for his inspection. 
"Open It," he almost shouted with excitement. The 
pipe was vigorously shaken; It was empty. The sick 
man stared for a moment, his eyes rolled in their 
sockets, then but one word escaped his lips; It was, 
"Jack!" The next moment he was raving crazy. 

For weeks the doctor cared for the unfortunate 
man, and It was only after a severe run of fever that 
he began to recover. The next day after the discovery 
of the theft, a posse of miners set out In search of 
some clew to the whereabouts of the robbers. Progress 
was slow, owing to the length of time that had elapsed 
since the perpetration of the robbery. The boat did 
not leave on the night of the robbery, and if the men 
HaH waited until the next day, some one must have 
150 



HOMEWARD BOUND 

seen them ; and In answer to the question, every one 
they met declared that they had seen nothing of them 
whatever. The main trail toWard Lake Linderman 
was followed by a few, others followed the course of 
the river, while a third party set out on the trail 
across to the coast. But to all inquiry not a clew was 
to be found to give any light whatever to the searchers. 

Finally, after several weeks had passed, word was 
received from Lake Bennett that the body of a man 
bearing the description of the Swede Johnsen had been 
found near the lake, hidden under some brush and 
rocks. A dozen miners Immediately started for that 
place with a strong team of dogs to bring the body to 
Dawson. On arriving at the place, they found the 
body to be that of Johnsen, the miner, who had left 
the saloon on the night of the robbery with $15,000. 
He had been shot through the head, the ball entering 
just behind the left ear and coming out near the right 
temple. His money and revolver were both gone, and 
his body lay just as it had pitched forward toward 
the campfire, indicating that a foul, deliberate murder 
had been committed. 

The Canadian Mounted Police w^ere notified and 
every effort put forth by them to run down the mur- 
derer, but failed. He was followed as far as Seattle, 
Washington, but there all trace of him came to an 
abrupt ending. He had been seen by several parties, 
but soon departed and has never been heard of since. 

As our miner finished relating this story of his life 
of misfortune and sorrow, he hid his face In his hands, 

151 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

and his body shook with emotion. Our party had 
gathered about him during this recital, filled with 
wonder, excitement, and indignation. But as he ceased 
speaking, we all sprang to our feet. "And what was 
the name of j^our villainous partner?" we asked with 
emotion, the hot blood rushing through our veins. 
"Wegmer," he replied, "Jack Wegmer." 



152 



XIII 

Nonevok Islands 

Cod-fishing Near Fox Islands — The Rolling 
Forties — ^We Enter the Golden Gate: San 
Francisco 

A shrill whistle from the ship's engine warned all 
hands that we were about to leave Cape Nome. Bid- 
ding the miners a hurried good-bye, we soon steamed 
out into the Bering Sea. Each man now returned to his 
post of duty, and the weather remaining fair, we pro- 
ceeded on our journey. On reaching the Nonevok Isl- 
ands, we dropped anchor and spent a few hours in fish- 
ing for cod. Several reels of small rope were brought 
on deck, each reel containing about thirty fathoms of 
line. Large hooks were fastened to these lines, and 
the reels attached to the railing of the deck. The hooks 
were then baited with small chunks of fat pork and 
dropped into the water. The reel began to unwind 
until the hooks reached the bottojm. For some time 
there was no movement, when suddenly one of the reels 
began to spin around, and the fish was quickly brought 
on board. It was a small cod, and as there were no 
more indications of a catch, the captain decided that 

^S3 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

the water was too shallow, and ordered the crew to 
steam further down the Strait before another cast was 
made. When Fox Islands was reached, we again cast 
anchor and let down our lines for another trial at 
cod fishing. At this place the water was about twenty 
fathoms deep, and we met with much better success. 
The fish taken here were large and of better quality. 
The sport was enjoyed by the whole crew, and nearly 
all the day was spent in replenishing our larder with 
fresh cod. Enough were taken to last for several days 
at least, and then passing out between the islands which 
were scattered across the southern extremity of the 
Bering Strait, we entered the northern Pacific Ocean. 

We had now left the last port, and directing our 
course straight toward San Francisco, started to cross 
the wild, rolling forties, as that part of the ocean is 
termed that lies between the fortieth and fiftieth degree 
of latitude. 

As we entered this great, angry expanse of water, 
a feeling of dread and apprehension seemed to take 
possession of every one on board. We now began 
to realize the risk we had taken in accepting passage 
on board so small a vessel, and especially one that old 
sailors had told us was not seaworthy. But it was too 
late now, and the wind being favorable, the sails were 
all set, and with a full head of steam on, we made 
the best possible time in an endeavor to cross this most 
dangerous part of our return trip. 

During the first few days the weather continued 
fair, and we made good time, notwithstanding the 



NONEVOK ISLANDS 

ocean was rough and disagreeable to navigate. We 
had expected this, and everything on board wsls made 
fast and as snug as possible. We now^ began to flatter 
ourselves that the w^orst part of the voyage w^as over, 
and had become quite accustomed to the roughness of 
the sea. But w^hen about ten days out, w^e were 
awakened one night by a sudden lurch of the ship, 
which sent us all sprawling from our bunks to the 
floor. Hurriedly slipping into our clothing, we made 
our way as best we could to the upper deck. The 
sailors were all busy furling the sails and making 
everything fast, and we knew by their quick tones and 
anxious looks that the much dreaded squall was ex- 
pected. The wind from the east was blowing a perfect 
gale, while a heavy bank of black clouds could be seen 
slowly rising from the eastern horizon. The captain 
and first mate were standing side by side watching 
every movement and giving orders to the man at the 
wheel, while the fourth mate was directing the work 
aloft and clinging to the rigging of the mainmast, high 
above our heads. The smoke from the galley was 
rolling out black as jet over the quarterdeck, blinding 
our eyes so we were obliged to crouch down on the 
windward side of the ship In order to see at all. The 
vessel plunged like mad as the storm Increased. Rain 
fell in torrents, and the waves washed over the lower 
deck as the storm broke upon us In all Its fury. The 
hatchways were fastened down, and all hands stood 
ready for action. The waves continued to roll higher 
and higher, but the vessel rode bravely over them, 

155 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

the puffing of her engines being heard above the roar- 
ing of the storm. An hour had passed and still no sign 
of the storm abating, when suddenly a great wave 
swept over the deck with such force that the hatchway 
was carried away and tons of water poured into the 
forecastle. Bunks and clothing belonging to the sailors 
were immediately soaked and in a short time were 
floating about in the dirty water. The third mate 
was instructed to take two or three men and repair 
the hatchways. They had scarcely reached the main 
deck, when shouts from the captain called them back. 
The engineer had just appeared on deck, his pale face 
and wild looks told every one that our worst fears 
were realized. "The ship had sprung a leak." The 
water was already pouring into the coal bunkers, and 
in less than an hour would reach the engines. The 
leak must be stopped at all hazards. A dozen men 
hurried to the engine room, led by the plucky engineer. 
The rest of the crew were ordered to get the buckets, 
and every man called into action. A line was formed 
leading from the top of the stairs to the coal bunkers, 
and the work of bailing began, leaving the man at 
the wheel in full charge of the rolling ship. The 
wind was now driving us westward at a swift rate 
as the storm continued to rage. Another half hour 
passed, the puffing of the engine could no longer 
be heard, the pumps ceased their motion, and the 
Mary D. Hume was at the mercy of the wind and 
waves. Three of the lifeboats had already been swept 
away, and the fourth one was also filled with water 

156 



NONEVOK ISLANDS 

as it hung from the side of the ship. Soon a huge 
wave struck this boat full in the center, crushing it 
like an eggshell, leaving the ends still hanging from 
the davits, v^^hile broken splinters were scattered on 
deck. 

One boat was now left us; but this one, which 
hung alongside of the wheelhouse, was protected by it, 
and we prayed that this one might be spared us. But 
the powerful, destroying elements were still unsatis- 
fied. A loud peal of thunder, almost deafening us, 
which was followed instantly by such a glare of light- 
ning that seemed to send electric flashes along the 
mainstays and crosstrees, lighting up the whole sur- 
roundings for a moment. The next Instant a mon- 
strous wave broke over the stern, carrying with it 
the roof of the wheelhouse; the water rushing in, en- 
veloped the wheelman and nearly threw him to the 
floor. The last lifeboat was torn from its fastenings, 
lifted into the air, and then plunged into the trough 
of the sea, and immediately sank beneath the waves. 
Suddenly the wind seemed to shift and came whirling 
and rushing from every direction. The ship swerved, 
turned partly around, and the next moment settled 
in the trough. On either side was now a high wall 
of water reaching above the vessel. For a moment 
she seemed to remain almost motionless, and then 
again began to rise. But as the vessel struggled to 
reach the top, a tremendous hurricane swept over 
her, and with a terrific crash the mainmast snapped 
at the base and fell to the deck, where it lay across 

157 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

the starboard bow, the shrouds and rigging beating 
the waves at every plunge. 

The fourth mate was standing near the head of 
the stairs, and despite his struggles, was carried out 
upon the rushing wave. He was a Portuguese and 
an excellent swimmer. For a moment he was seen 
treading the topmost wave, and then disappeared. 
But as the vessel rolled to port, the broken spar was 
lifted above the waves, and clinging to the rigging was 
the Portuguese. The next moment he sprang upon 
the deck, none the worse for his plunge. Two other 
sailors were missing, and as no one saw them swept 
overboard, it was supposed that they must have met 
their fate by the same great wave that carried away 
the mate. "Another wave like that and we are gone," 
shouted the captain through the trumpet; but the 
men were praying and calling on their Maker for 
help, and He who has all power over both wind and 
wave heard their cry. The storm passed as quickly 
as it came, and only the rolling waves and broken 
ship told of the mad freaks of the ocean squall. 

The engineer and his men had succeeded In stop- 
ping the leak, which proved to be only the parting 
of the seams in the bottom of the bunkers, and after 
being tightly calked, the water was soon reduced by 
the faithful bailing of the sailors. The fires were 
again rekindled and the engine started, the pumps 
began to work, and in just eight hours from the time 
the storm struck the vessel we were again steaming 
southward. The hatchwa^^s were repaired, the broken 

158 



NONEVOK ISLANDS 

mast was lashed to the deck rail, and the wheelhouse 
covered with sailcloth. 

Much damage had been done by the water in 
the hold, but our skins and a part of our collections 
were safe, and our hearts were again lifted up to 
God In thankfulness that our lives had been spared 
from the fate of the deep. Observations proved that 
the ship had been driven more than one hundred miles 
out of her course by the storm. 

On September 23d we passed the fortieth degree 
and encountered no more serious difficulty thereafter. 
At Point Rae the revenue cutter met us wnth custom 
house officers on board, which gave us the first news 
from civilization that we had heard for more than a 
year. The war with Spain was ended and peace again 
restored, was the first news that greeted our ears, and 
which brought a shout from our lips. 

We soon passed the Golden Gate and entered 
the harbor at San Francisco with our dilapidated whal- 
ing vessel. 



The rest of the story is soon told. A few days 
were spent in settling with the Pacific Steam Whaling 
Company, owners of the Mary D. Hume, and In dis- 
posing of our skins and fur. We found the fur 
market firm and the demand for Arctic fur steadily 
Increasing, and the modest sum received made up to 
some extent for our misfortune. 

On October 12th we reached home and loved 

159 



THE FROZEN NORTHLAND 

ones, having been gone for nearly two years. And 
as we now look back over the past, with all of its 
adventures, its privations and hardships, together with 
some enjoyments, we feel thankful to our Heavenly 
Father that we are still alive, and trust that we are 
wiser, if not richer men, because of our adventurous 
experiences in the ''Frozen Northland." 



1 60 



NOV ■' 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 



